How can something that is so light in alcohol have such incredible palate weight and texture? It's an art form and Ernst Loosen is a master. The Kabinett style means a decent lick of residual sugar, but the steely, crunchy acid means you'll hardly notice it. Simply stunning.

WEINGUT JULIAN HAART Kabinett Old Vines Riesling, Mosel

Almond and vanilla cream are co-mingled with melon and apple on a palate of satiny, lees-enhanced richness and vivid buoyancy. This manages to soothe and refresh in an unbeatable if not inimitable 2008 way, with brown spices and crushed stone adding complexity to its lingering finish.

Following fermentation the wine is bottled after four months maturation on fine lees. Colour is pale but gleaming yellow with green tints and the nose is typically intense with notes of peach and apricot. Good length in the mouth with various citrussy and intense, almost salty mineral notes. The wine is noted for its structure and finesse. Thörle Riesling is best consumed as a young wine, up to seven years after vintage.

The fruit for this wine is sourced from Kellers GG (Grosses Gewächs, or Grand Cru) vineyard. Picked early, this wine comes from green harvested fruit. The level of residual sugar is elevated here, but the acidity needs and, demands it. The chalky, powdery limestone minerality, in sync with the acidity, creates a profound and memorable palate experience and a stage for a mouthwatering pop, pop, pop of green apple and citrus. Moreish isnt the word.