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This Levantine Hill Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is redolent with blackberry, blackcurrant and cocoa-rich chocolate on the nose. Followed by the supple, balanced middle palate evokes truffle, bramble and earthy complexity on the palate. An outstanding example of site and region, its chewy, satisfying tannins are beautifully integrated with fleshy fruit characters, hedonic spice and lingering, persistent length.

With a long and tumultuous history in the Haut-Médoc, stretching all the way back to its classification as one of fourteen 3me crus in the 1855 Classification, the Chateau has been rescued from obscurity, sold from family to family and endured superbly, as this latest offering amply exhibits. Unique, vibrant, and deep in colour, the 2016 can proudly hold its head up among the best La Lagune releases of recent years. Intensely aromatic, with a supple, medium-bodied palate, it will benefit from four or five years in the cellar and give ample rewards for your patience.

Chateau Branaire-Ducru is a fourth growth (4ème Cru Classé) St-Julien estate, in the southern area of the appellation. The Grand Vin has a high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon between 80-85% in most years; one of the highest in the Médoc. The grapes are hand-harvested and undergo a three week post fermentation maceration to build tannin structure before the wine is matured in 60-65% new French oak barriques for 16-20 months. Branaire-Ducru is renowned for producing classic claret wines that are elegant, ripe and well balanced.

La Dame de Montrose, first vintage 1983, is the highly-regarded second wine of Chateau Montrose, the St. Estephe deuxième cru (second growth). Montrose has a little more than 90ha of vines, the entire site overlooking the Gironde. The vineyard is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Around 50% (or less) of the crop goes to make the grand vin and around 30% (or more) goes into La Dame de Montrose. (The rest is used elsewhere or sold in bulk.) In good years La Dame de Montrose is considered a bargain, in the best years it stands alone as a great wine. The Dame de Montrose herself is the late Yvonne Charmolüe, who ran the estate from 1944 to 1960.

The Woodlands Margaret is, true to its name, a realisation of all that is great about Margaret River, arguably Australias home of the Bordeaux style. Sourced from the Woodlands Vineyards in Wilyabrup this is a blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 8% Malbec. Considering the price of the Watson familys flagship, the Margaret offers truly outstanding value.

This 20ha vineyard was planted on red clay loam soil at Woori Yallock in 2001 by Lou Primavera, with whom Giant Steps has a long-standing grape-supply relationship. Pinot Noir (114, MV6 and G8V3 clones) grown here on the north and north east facing slopes at 230m is noted for its complex structure and pronounced perfume. The 114 and MV6 are fermented as whole bunches in open vats, while the G8V3 is destemmed, given a long cold-soak and fermented separately to enhance its aromatic contribution. All ferments use indigenous yeasts and the whole-bunch components are periodically foot-stomped to release additional juice. The wines are pressed to 228 litre, French barriques (about 8% new) for 11 months before blending and bottling without fining or filtration.

An array of blood orange, tangelo, strawberry and wild flowers here with pot pourri-like nuances that pervade the dried cherry and spiced red plum fruits. The palate has a very succulent and lithe, juicy edge that emits freshness and crunchy appeal. Very bright finish, drink now.

OAKRIDGE WINES 864 Close Planted Block Shiraz, Yarra Valley