Place Of Changing Winds Heathcote Syrah No 2
Previously labeled Graillot Project Syrah No. 2, the 2016 vintage was the last vintage of this wine to be bottled under the Graillot labelling. In Robs words, we have been working very hard on the viticulture of the Heathcote site for a long time now and we have been organic for the last few years. We have agreed to begin the certification process before the next harvest. As a result of this, and other farming practices that have been implemented, we believe that we have seen some significant improvement in the fruit and the expression of place and we all therefore feel, (myself, Max and Alain Graillot), that the time is right to emphasise the vineyard and region over the makers. The Graillots will continue with their involvement as before. Further, with the wines (from 2018) now made at Place of Changing Winds, the two Heathcote Syrah wines can now be seen as part of the Place of Changing Winds family. This is also reflected on the back label. In most other respects, the song remains the same. All the fruit is hand harvested and the 2017 was blended from spontaneous 100% whole bunch ferments. This 2017 was raised by Luke Lambert, mostly large format, neutral oak (predominantly Stockinger) and no sulphur used through the ageing. As always, the winemaking is extremely simple. 2017 needs little introduction, so lets just say that this vintage gave exceptionally pure, balanced fruit, which we think is borne out in the quality of this release.
Syrahmi Mouvedre
This close-planted Mourvèdre vineyard (4545 vines per Hectare) on rich pre-Cambrian soil produced fruit of amazing complexity and length of flavour. Bright and light raspberry red in colour, the perfumed nose of ripe berry fruits, raspberries and layered with dried herbs, amaro and warm spice of garam masala. Savoury turned earth, spice, lifted whole bunch (50%) and a meaty small goods character. Medium bodied, lighter on its feet than most Mourvèdres. This wine is all about texture and fine velvet like fine tannins; palate is long, rolling and fresh.
Tyrrells Old Hut Shiraz
Ripe raspberry, some exotic spice and earthiness, maybe some boysenberry. Medium bodied here, with a good amount of earthy raspberry flavour, a layer of spice, perky acidity and a little grip from tannin. Runs out nicely on the finish, and feels pretty satisfying to drink. I like this. Character plus. More to come too, I expect. Alcohol: 13.5%. Closure: screwcap. Date tasted: Jun 2017. Drink: 2019-2029. Price: $50. Rating: 93+/100.
Kooyong Chardonnay
Sandro Mosele continues to take Kooyong's estate wines to heights unseen for the price. Focus, linear acidity and supreme elegance are all hallmarks of Sandro's work and all can be seen here. Along with great precision, comes lovely fruit characters also that work with a whole range of Asian-fusion cuisine.
Hugel Gewurztraminer
Escarpment Chardonnay
Powerful and opulent with a flinty backbone to balance the concentrated stone fruit and barrel fermentation complexities.
Kumeu River Chardonnay
This has power and concentration yet retains delicacy and freshness. Mineral, grapefruit, almond meal and quality oak are seamlessly interwoven.
Simonnet-Febvre Chablis
Simonnet-Febvre has a dedication to quality Chardonnay that is unsurpassed in the Chablis region. Old vines are entrenched in limestone soil that produce some of the most evocative examples available. Clean, zesty citrus lines of flavour all surrounded by the unmistakable line of acid so prevalent in this classically styled wines. Superb!
Robert Weil Riesling Trocken
This cuvée is a blend of fruit from high altitude Estate vineyards - including the brilliantly named Sandgrub vineyard - dotted around the village. There's a good dollop of Wasseros too, a fine vineyard which wraps around the Gräfenberg Grosse Lage. We've had some great bottles of this wine over the years, but few with the kind of horsepower on offer here. Racy and cool, with citrus and ripe stone fruit, yet balanced by fabulous, mouth-watering acidity; this is the sort of wine that will make Riesling lovers shudder with pleasure. Robert Weil doesn't make 'entry level' wines, as this clearly shows.
Kumeu River Maté's Chardonnay
Kumeu River Maté's Vineyard Chardonnay is named in honour Maté Barjkovich after he reworked a unique parcel of land in 1990 which was planted to Chardonnay. The resulting wines today are a pure balance between texture and purity. Lifted notes of pear and citrus are complimented by creamy mouthfeel and balanced acid. A fantastic example of a modern new world style.