Place of Changing Winds Larderdark Chardonnay
Domaine des Hâtes Pierrick Laroche Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux
Product Information: Butteaux is one of the ‘climats’ of Premier cru Montmains which is regarded as one of the top Premier cru vineyard sites in Chablis lying beside or below Vaillons. Being one of the most southern locations for 1er cru in Chablis it is regarded as a cooler site with slightly later harvest. Here there is a very thin layer of clay which overlays the Kimmeridgian marls. Maker: Pierrick Laroche, the proud owner of Domaine des Hâtes, continues the legacy of his family's estate located in the picturesque village of Maligny, in the north-west sector of Chablis. The name of Pierrick's Domaine, "hâtes" refers to an old agricultural unit of measure, similar to the English rod. It evokes the long and slender fields used for sowing, where the longer rows made plowing easier with fewer turns. The term "hâtes" was often used to describe such fields. Established by his father in the 1970s, Pierrick's family vineyard holdings have gradually expanded over time, resulting in the current size of around 33 hectares. After obtaining a degree in oenology from Beaune, Pierrick embarked on a journey to gain valuable experience by traveling the world and undertaking various internships. Armed with knowledge and a deep passion for winemaking, he returned home to take over the family vineyards and start producing his own wines. Philosophy: Pierrick's cellars, ingeniously built into the side of a hill in the village, allow for much of the winemaking process to be conducted by gravity ensuring gentle handling of the grapes. The vinification takes place traditionally in stainless steel tanks, while some of the Premier and Grand Cru wines undergo a small portion of aging in used barrels, allowing for a full malolactic fermentation. One of his oldest vineyard plots, Les Châtillons, planted in the early 1970s, sits just behind the hill of the Grand Crus and showcases the meticulous use of barrel aging, which adds complexity and depth to the cuvée. In 2016, Pierrick expanded his range by starting a small négoce operation, sourcing must from friends who predominantly farm on the left side of the river. This addition includes premier crus such as Beauroy, Beauregard and Vau de Vey, as well as the grand cru of Bougros. In 2019, Pierrick inherited 8 acres of vines from his father-in-law in the southern sector of Chablis, around the village of Courgis. This inheritance includes Petit Chablis, 5.5 acres of Chablis and just over half an acre of the premier cru Les Butteaux. Pierrick Laroche's dedication to his craft is evident in every bottle of wine he produces. With a perfect blend of tradition and innovation, his wines showcase the unique terroir of Chablis, captivating enthusiasts with their finesse, complexity and distinct character. As Pierrick continues to nurture and expand his vineyards, he upholds the family legacy while leaving his own mark on the world of Chablis winemaking. Nose - Direct, Oyster Shells, Green Apples Developing scents of Granny Smith apples and flint with time in the glass. Palate - Silken, Quince, Concentrated The medium-bodied palate delivers fine acidity that cuts through the rich citrus fruit, along with touches of white peach and a tang of quince. Finish - Light Spice, Persistent, Saline Lightly spiced and quite persistent toward the saline finish. Excellent. Butteaux is one of the ‘climats’ of Premier cru Montmains which is regarded as one of the top Premier cru vineyard sites in Chablis lying beside or below Vaillons. Being one of the most southern locations for 1er cru in Chablis it is regarded as a cooler site with slightly later harvest. Here there is a very thin layer of clay which overlays the Kimmeridgian marls. Nearly 3 hectares extra. This is the first part of Butteaux as you leave Chablis next to Forets… Younger vines planted by father-in-law after some court-noué and it seems to be returning – 12-15 hl/ha in 2022. All barrel elevage again. A more subtle nose – quite direct though. Really a panoramic width of flavour here – silken, a little more apparent concentration/generosity – large-scale wine. Simply delicious but today I’d take the more linear l’Homme Mort. - Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, January 2024.
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