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Disgorged November 2022. Les Longues Voyes translates as ‘the long way’, referring not only to the 25 kilometres that you need to travel from the Laherte estate to arrive at the vineyard but also to the wine’s extended aging: 18 months in barrel and a further 18-20 months in bottle. The fruit is sourced from a single hectare of biodynamic vines in Chamery, Montagne de Reims, owned by a good friend of Aurélien Laherte’s. The 35-year-old vines are rooted in clay and silt over a limestone base. The wine was made from a single four-tonne press of grapes, which fermented naturally and matured in old Clos des Epeneaux and Leroux barrels. There was no malolactic conversion, and the dosage was 4 g/L. So, the estate now has two vintage Blanc de Noirs released at the same time: Les Vignes d’Autrefois from Meunier and Les Longues Voyes from Pinot Noir. The first comes from a chalky subsoil and the second from limestone, and it is fascinating to compare the different structures that result. Fans of Pinot Noir on limestone should move to the front of the queue.

Louis Roederer Brut Nature Deluxe Rosé 2015 exemplifies innovative craftsmanship and terroir expression in Champagne. This cuvée is crafted from Premier Cru fruit in Cumières, blending 50% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay and 13% Meunier, and stands out as a collaboration with designer Philippe Starck. A portion of the ripest Pinot Noir is cold-infused and blended with the Brut Nature base, then co-fermented for complexity. The wine is bottle-aged for six years on lees and finished with zero dosage, resulting in extraordinary purity and depth.

The Champagne Henriot Rose 2015 is a stunning and refined expression of the classic French bubbly. Boasting a light salmon pink hue, this vintage from the esteemed Henriot house is a true visual delight. On the nose, the wine offers delicate yet pronounced aromas of freshly picked strawberries and raspberries, balanced by subtle hints of brioche and toasted almonds. On the palate, the bubbles dance gracefully, revealing a creamy texture and a lively acidity. The flavours of red berries continue to dominate, accompanied by a touch of citrus and a lingering mineral finish. This Champagne is a true testament to the exceptional quality and craftsmanship of Henriot, a producer renowned for their dedication to excellence. Sip and savour this exquisite offering on its own, or pair it with a variety of seafood, charcuterie, and soft cheeses for a truly memorable experience.

The 2019 Champagne Laherte Frères Les Grandes Crayères Extra Brut is a masterpiece from the renowned Laherte Freres winery in the Champagne region of France. This vintage boasts a delicate, pale gold hue with fine bubbles that dance on the tongue. On the nose, notes of crisp green apple, hints of citrus and toasted brioche tantalize the senses. On the palate, the wine reveals layers of complexity with a perfect balance of freshness and richness. Flavors of ripe pear, lemon zest, and a touch of minerality lead to a long and elegant finish. This Extra Brut is a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship and expertise of Champagne Laherte Frères, making it a must-try for any champagne enthusiast. Enjoy it as an aperitif or pair it with seafood, creamy cheeses, or roasted poultry. Cheers to a truly exceptional wine experience.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Disgorged December 2021. This wine offers the “quintessence of the Chavot terroir”, says Aurélien. It is always a selection of Laherte’s five best barrels from each of his two finest Chavot plots: old-vine Chardonnay from Les Chemins d’Épernay (planted in 1957 on clay with chalky subsoils, with around one-third of the fruit the rare Chardonnay-Muscaté); and Pinot Noir from Les Rouges Maisons (planted in the late ‘80s on a deep soil rich in clay, flint and schist). The wines were vinified separately and raised in old Burgundy oak (with some portions fermented in second-hand DRC Le Montrachet barrels). The dosage was 4 g/L. The old vines and clay of Les Chemins d’Épernay impart genuine depth and texture, and this opulence is vibrantly balanced by crystalline freshness and a long, classy finish. This superb, unique Champagne clearly speaks of its terroir. If you love great white Burgundy, this has similar textural and mineral qualities.