Nine Lives Stone Wall Shiraz 2021 is deep purple in hue with aromas of dark fruits, plum, blackberry, and hints of cinnamon and nutmeg spice. The palate leads with generous flavours of blackberry and satsuma plum, alongside spice, toasty oak and graphite. The palate is framed by fine silky tannins and persistent fruit length.

The Pike brothers established Pikes winery in the Polish Hill sub-region of the Clare Valley in 1984, renovating an old stone shearing shed to house their winery and cellar door. Neil is the veteran winemaker (he’s done 38 vintages in Clare); Andrew the seasoned viticulturist (he spent 22 years working for big names like Wynn’s Coonawarra and Southcorp before establishing Pikes). Together they turn out formidable wines that earn plenty of show medals and critical acclaim. Their richly textured 2017 'Wilfred's Block' really is magnificent. A definitive Australian blend of inky, slatey Cabernet and sumptuous, spicy Shiraz, it’s a contemplative wine – the layers of flavour will reveal themselves slowly – and perfect for winter sipping. It will cellar well until 2032, but is still drinking beautifully now. Decant, pour into big glasses, and savour with good food and good friends.

COMMUNE OF BUTTONS Gloria Pinot Noir, Adelaide Hills Commune of Buttons began with a single dream between brother and sister, to continue as second-generation growers of grapes. This is a distinctive Pinot from the much-loved Commune of Buttons. The Gloria vineyard is 1Ha of 25-year-old dry-grown Pinot vines planted in clay and sandstone soils rich in ironstone, quartz and basalt. With flavours of cassis, fresh grape juice, a lick of plum, and just a hint of cherry.

The trailblazers of the Adelaide Hills have created another outstanding wine. A superb expression of modern cool-climate Shiraz; Shaw & Smith is elegantly spicy and brimming with supple red-fruit flavours matched by fine tannins. An absolute ripper.