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Savoury, woody spice adds greater interest to become quite intense in its cherry skin and stone flavours, with intriguing white mushroom and pepper notes in the finish.

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Bright straw yellow. Complex bouquet, with notes of pear, white peach, and barley sugar with barrel ferment characters. Fresh and bright, with a generous mid palate weight, and a creamy texture, ripe white peach, oatmeal and pear balanced by citrus acidity and cedar spiced - oak finish. Chardonnay was destemmed and pressed direct to barrel for fermentation using wild yeast. Then matured in French oak barriques (30% new) for 12 months, with regular lees stirring and minimal MLF, then fined, filtered and bottled in February 2018. Enjoy now or cellar for 4 to 8 years.

This 20ha vineyard was planted on red clay loam soil at Woori Yallock in 2001 by Lou Primavera, with whom Giant Steps has a long-standing grape-supply relationship. Pinot Noir (114, MV6 and G8V3 clones) grown here on the north and north east facing slopes at 230m is noted for its complex structure and pronounced perfume. The 114 and MV6 are fermented as whole bunches in open vats, while the G8V3 is destemmed, given a long cold-soak and fermented separately to enhance its aromatic contribution. All ferments use indigenous yeasts and the whole-bunch components are periodically foot-stomped to release additional juice. The wines are pressed to 228 litre, French barriques (about 8% new) for 11 months before blending and bottling without fining or filtration.

Single vineyard Chardonnay. The terroir and vineyard speaks for itself. Delicate, complex, delicious.

One of the Yarra Valley's up and comers, the Punt Road Shiraz is almost black in colour with aromas of cassis and a whiff of licquorice. A palate of plush plums and blackcurrant follows with flash of peppery spice. Kate Goodman continues to do a stellar job at one of the Yarra Valley's best wineries.

Toolangi is a state forest just outside Healesville that was devastated during Black Saturday. The excellent vineyards remain, and continue to produce wines of personality and place. The Chardonnay combines varietal characters of quince and crab apple with some delicious nutty oak nuances. Its great value.

The aspiration of Oakridge LVS -- or Local Vineyard Series -- wines is to be outstanding expressions of single vineyards within the Yarra Valley. Local Vineyard Series wines enable wine lovers to compare and contrast the power of terroir and geography in winemaking. In essence, different grape varieties thrive in different soils, and Yarra Valley terroirs and altitudes vary widely. Oakridges expertise and understanding of the region allows viticulturists and winemakers to match a particular variety with a particular site -- with marvellous results. Almost all LVS wines are cellarworthy. The Willowlake Vineyard is just outside Gladysdale in Victorias Upper Yarra Valley. Planted in 1979 at an elevation 300 metres, the cool-grown Chardonnay here ranks with the regions very best. Add the skills of leading Chardonnay exponent David Bicknell and these hand-picked grapes become wines that express their variety and origin with consummate precision and flair.

David Bicknell is a Chardonnay perfectionist with a passion for terroir and contrasts in the characters of different vineyard sites. In the glass: Bright fine straw with a green hue. On the nose: Fabulous purity and lift with ripe, complex stonefruit combining with lees and struck match magic. On the palate: A complex funky monster! It shows tremendous depth and umami being satiny soft throughout with amazing refined power and balance and extraordinary length and persistence. Classy!