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While the estate known as Chateau Haut-Bailly dates back to 1461, its wine production began in 1530, falling into the hands of the de Leuvarde and Le Bailly families in 1630. It was purchased in 1998 by Robert G Wilmers, a Harvard-educated banker, and his French wife Elisabeth and under their care, the estate has begun producing some of the best wines in its history. The cellars and production procedures were renovated and modernised and this year, the Chateau itself was awarded government recognition of its cultural and vinious heritage. From some of the oldest vines in the region, the 2016 has been lauded as one of the Chateaus best, with Neal Martin hailing it as perhaps the best that I have tasted in almost 20 years of tasting at this estate.

An upswing in quality over the past decade or so, has resurrected Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte's position amongst Bordeaux Chateau. New ownership breathed life into exceptionally positioned vineyards, now farmed with less chemicals, with a more sympatico approach in winery. Famed winemaking consultant Michel Rolland is an additional feather in Smith-Haut-Lafitte's cap, enhancing the wines concentration, power and depth, while maintaining a finesse. Though full-bodied, the wine from 2010 will be approachable a little earlier than most other fine Bordeaux, with more moderate tannin - that being said, it's life will stretch several decades too.

While it is true that lovers of Pauillac wines can sometimes be divided over their love of the wines from Lynch-Bages, it will go without question that the wines produced from the magnificent 2009 vintage are sure to be coveted by all. Vintage conditions were simply perfect and have allow this Pauillac producer to embrace its love of plush, fruit forward wines and yet deliver a wine of immense power and structure.