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The acidity is firmer here than the Meunier Blanc de Noirs (Vignes d'Autrefois), with a chewy austerity typical of limestone in Champagne. Regardless, it is fine and poised on the palate with impressive balance, racy freshness and fine chalk-infused bitters that drive a long, sapid finish—an outstanding Blanc de Noirs.

The Champagne Suenen Oiry Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru (Base 20 Disg. TBA) NV is a true reflection of the quality and craftsmanship of Champagne production in France. The bright and pale golden hues of this wine immediately catch the eye, hinting at the elegance and finesse within. On the nose, delicate aromas of white flowers, brioche, and hints of citrus fruits dance together, creating a captivating bouquet. On the palate, this Champagne displays a lively and refined acidity, balanced by creamy notes of lemon curd, green apple, and a touch of minerality. The finish is long and satisfying, leaving a lingering taste of toasted almonds and a subtle hint of salinity. This vintage NV from Suenen is a testament to their dedication to producing exceptional Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Champagnes. A must-try for any Champagne lover.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Disgorged December 2021. This wine offers the “quintessence of the Chavot terroir”, says Aurélien. It is always a selection of Laherte’s five best barrels from each of his two finest Chavot plots: old-vine Chardonnay from Les Chemins d’Épernay (planted in 1957 on clay with chalky subsoils, with around one-third of the fruit the rare Chardonnay-Muscaté); and Pinot Noir from Les Rouges Maisons (planted in the late ‘80s on a deep soil rich in clay, flint and schist). The wines were vinified separately and raised in old Burgundy oak (with some portions fermented in second-hand DRC Le Montrachet barrels). The dosage was 4 g/L. The old vines and clay of Les Chemins d’Épernay impart genuine depth and texture, and this opulence is vibrantly balanced by crystalline freshness and a long, classy finish. This superb, unique Champagne clearly speaks of its terroir. If you love great white Burgundy, this has similar textural and mineral qualities.

The C + C Blanc de Blancs is blended from nine parcels across both north and south-facing hillsides in Cramant and Chouilly, including Les Robarts and Le Mont-Aigu. The oldest vines date back to 1951. The average depth of the soils of these parcels is marginally deeper than Oiry, with silty clay overlaying the chalk. In Suenen’s plots on Cramant’s eastern slope—Les Robarts, Les Basses Croix, Les Fourches du Nord, Les Vignes de Mardu—the soils measure one metre before the roots meet the chalk. In Chouilly, it’s closer to 60 cm. This extra depth, along with a good dose of southern exposure, makes for a more hedonistic wine. The blend is split between Cramant (70%) and Chouilly (30%). Although tempted to bottle each village separately, Suenen has found the two villages work even better as a blend; the textural finesse of Cramant marries perfectly to the more layered personality of Chouilly. Again, the wine aged on lees for nine months in enamelled tank (50%) and in used Burgundy oak barrels and demi-muid. It then aged for 30 months in bottle with no fining, no filtration and no cold stabilisation.