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Disgorged November 2022. Les Longues Voyes translates as ‘the long way’, referring not only to the 25 kilometres that you need to travel from the Laherte estate to arrive at the vineyard but also to the wine’s extended aging: 18 months in barrel and a further 18-20 months in bottle. The fruit is sourced from a single hectare of biodynamic vines in Chamery, Montagne de Reims, owned by a good friend of Aurélien Laherte’s. The 35-year-old vines are rooted in clay and silt over a limestone base. The wine was made from a single four-tonne press of grapes, which fermented naturally and matured in old Clos des Epeneaux and Leroux barrels. There was no malolactic conversion, and the dosage was 4 g/L. So, the estate now has two vintage Blanc de Noirs released at the same time: Les Vignes d’Autrefois from Meunier and Les Longues Voyes from Pinot Noir. The first comes from a chalky subsoil and the second from limestone, and it is fascinating to compare the different structures that result. Fans of Pinot Noir on limestone should move to the front of the queue.

The 2019 Champagne Laherte Frères Les Grandes Crayères Extra Brut is a masterpiece from the renowned Laherte Freres winery in the Champagne region of France. This vintage boasts a delicate, pale gold hue with fine bubbles that dance on the tongue. On the nose, notes of crisp green apple, hints of citrus and toasted brioche tantalize the senses. On the palate, the wine reveals layers of complexity with a perfect balance of freshness and richness. Flavors of ripe pear, lemon zest, and a touch of minerality lead to a long and elegant finish. This Extra Brut is a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship and expertise of Champagne Laherte Frères, making it a must-try for any champagne enthusiast. Enjoy it as an aperitif or pair it with seafood, creamy cheeses, or roasted poultry. Cheers to a truly exceptional wine experience.

Disgorged November 2022. 100% old-vine Pinot Meunier. Les Vignes d’Autrefois (‘vines of another time’) is made from a single four-tonne press of grapes from old vines planted between 1947 and 1964. These grow in several chalky terroirs in Chavot and Mancy. The sites in Chavot (La Potote and Les Rouges Maisons) sit on deep clay and silt soils, with a presence of flint and small stones. In Mancy are Les Hautes Norgeailles and Les Bas Putroux, where the vines are rooted in clay soils over chalk. Viticulture for these sites is entirely biodynamic. As well as referencing the age of the vines, the name also refers to the fact that these vines are all massal selections (i.e. non-clonal). There is even a soupçon of ungrafted vine material scattered throughout these vineyards. Aurélien uses old Burgundy barrels for aging (including some sourced from Montille and Leroux), and there was no malolactic conversion. The wine aged for seven months in barrel, followed by 30 months on lees in bottle. The very low dosage of 3 g/L allows the iodine minerality of these chalky terroirs to sing. This is emblematic of the quality at Laherte today and reflects the fruit’s tension and low-yield intensity. It offers a wonderful balance between penetrating, spicy, fleshy red fruit and salty, racy deliciousness—one of the great Meunier bottlings of Champagne.

Disgorged November 2022. Petit Meslier has formed an integral part of Aurélien Laherte’s Les 7 cuvée for almost 20 vintages. One of Champagne’s heirloom varieties, Meslier is a historic cross between Gouais Blanc and Savagnin. Although it has been largely forgotten in Champagne, the Laherte family has remained attached to the grape’s personality and its ability to retain acidity, even in warmer vintages. Between 2014 and 2018, Laherte established a mid-slope vineyard on Chavot’s clay/limestone soils, using massal cuttings from the domaine’s oldest Meslier vines. This wine marks the third release of this exciting project. The grapes are pressed in Laherte’s antique Coquard press, and the juice ferments naturally in old barrel. The wine ages for six months on lees in barrel and then a further 18 months sur lattes. This bottling is based on the 2020 vintage with 40% reserve wines and was disgorged by hand with just 2 g/L dosage (extra brut). When Domaine Didier Dagueneau decided to craft a sparkling wine in Pouilly-Fumé (yet to be released), Benjamin Dagueneau chose Petit Meslier as its hero. From the first glass, it’s clear why Laherte and Dagueneau have decided to put their faith in this unique, forgotten variety. Champagne thrill seekers should not hesitate.