Pinot noir sourced from the Coal River and Derwent valleys in Tasmania and the Upper Yarra Valley in Victoria. Bright ruby with ripe dark and red cherry fruits, raspberry coulis and wild strawberry with hints of leaf litter, spice, softly spoken vanillin oak, char siu, mushroom broth, amaro herbs and wildflowers. Graceful and pure with excellent tension between fruit and mineral acidity, fading off slowly in a fan of spiced red fruits.

St Henri is a time-honoured and alternative expression of shiraz, and an intriguing counterpoint to Grange. It is unusual amongst high quality Australian red wines as it does not rely on any new oak. Released for the first time by Penfolds in the early 1950s (first commercial vintage 1957), it gained a new lease of life in the 1990s as its quality and distinctive style became better understood. Proudly, a wine style that hasnt succumbed to the dictates of fashion or commerce. St Henri is rich and plush when young, gaining soft, earthy, mocha-like characters with age. It is matured in an assortment of old large vats that allow the wine to develop, imparting minimal, if any oak character. Although a small proportion of cabernet may sneak into the blend, the focal point for St Henri remains shiraz.

Giant Steps is a complex Pinot Noir with terrific varietal character. The nose shows rose petal, dark cherry and tomato leaf aromas and the palate is fleshy but tight, with savoury, dusty notes and silky tannins.

This 20ha vineyard was planted on red clay loam soil at Woori Yallock in 2001 by Lou Primavera, with whom Giant Steps has a long-standing grape-supply relationship. Pinot Noir (114, MV6 and G8V3 clones) grown here on the north and north east facing slopes at 230m is noted for its complex structure and pronounced perfume. The 114 and MV6 are fermented as whole bunches in open vats, while the G8V3 is destemmed, given a long cold-soak and fermented separately to enhance its aromatic contribution. All ferments use indigenous yeasts and the whole-bunch components are periodically foot-stomped to release additional juice. The wines are pressed to 228 litre, French barriques (about 8% new) for 11 months before blending and bottling without fining or filtration.

JEAN-NOEL GAGNARD Cuvee L'Estimee , Chassagne-Montrachet

Penfolds Bin 407 began life back in 1993 with the release of the 1990 vintage Cabernet Sauvignon. Created as a result of the availability of high quality Cabernet fruit, Bin 407 is inspired by its older brother, Bin 707. Not only offering varietal definition, but also approachability, structure and depth of flavour. The Bin 407 highlights the Penfolds approach to multi-region, multi-vineyard blending to create a Cabernet that rewards the drinker in both early and later years.

Although this Pinot noir's deep purple colour is not necessarily an indication of quality, its intensity is a magnificent and seductive feature. The usual Dry River aromas of Christmas spice, pipe tobacco and plum are all in attendance. Initially this wine seems savoury, dark and brooding but elegant red berry and raspberry characters are not to be missed. This tension between dark and light, spice and fruit, opulence and restraint is a result of the blend of the three vineyards, Dry River, Craighall and Lovat with all three contributing their specific vineyard characteristics to the final wine. The juicy, sappy and dense fruit fills out the palate providing a full and fleshy mouth-feel. The acidity provides focus and a thoroughfare for the wine towards the back with a dapple of oak influence for support and additional complexity. While transparent tannins are no hindrance to the front palate, the soft nature of this wine is not to be misjudged.

Many class Ata Rangi as the quintessential 'New World' Pinot Noir, the best example of the variety outside of Burgundy. It's hard to argue when you let the supple, dark berry and spiced fruit pass your lips. Considered 'Grand Cru' in New Zealand, Ata Rangi was awarded the inaugural Tipuranga Teitei o Aotearoa classification, cementing its pedigree.