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From the smallest parcel of the Leoville estate, comes Chateau L?oville-Barton, a once mid-tier level 2nd Growth that has accelerated in quality and interest since the reinvigoration of current proprietor Anthony Barton in the mid 1980s. The rich, gravel-and-clay soils host a predominately Cabernet Sauvignon base of vines, though Merlot and Cabernet Franc also factor. New oak use is kept to around 50%, and the wines are notable for their purity yet power. 2010 is no exception, with a wine that drives with authority across the palate, while providing the baseline for a long time of pleasurable cellaring. Rightfully called one of the most exciting producers of St-Julien.

Essence of blackcurrant. Bay leaves, licorice, tobacco and musky oak. One of those wines that seems to cascade through the mouth. Tremendous purity, freshness, elegance. Great release. Not much need be said. Pure velvet. Pure length. Drink 2019-2032.

LEVANTINE HILL Samantha's Paddock Cabernet blend, Yarra Valley

With a name like George Smith, you could be mistaken for thinking this vineyard was on the northern side of the 'channel', but alas, it resides in Pessac-Léognan in France's famed Bordeaux region. Bought by the Englishman in 1720, the wine still bears his name. The red wine that comes out of the estate is one of aromatics and spiciness and of recent times, more opulence and fruit weight.