Whilst Chavys have been living in Puligny Montrachet for over 200 years it was not until 1986 that Gerard Chavy started to estate bottle his own wine (previously the wines were sold to negotiants). This Chardonnay by Jean-Louis Chavy is based on 20-60 year old vines. Les Tremblot, (more Puligny in character, as the soil is argileous, says Jean-Louis); Les Meix, Les Levrons (more rounded wine for there are more stones and gravel here and it is not so heavy), Corvée des Vignes and Les Reuchaux.

Moreau’s village Chablis is drawn mostly from 20 to 30 year old vineyards in Préhy and Courgis, both in the south of Chablis. Then, there are parcels in Chablis and Chichée (under the Premier Cru Vaugiraut). All up, the domaine has the luxury of working with 30 parcels scattered across the appellation, representing a variety of soil structures and exposures. All the fruit from the younger vines is sold off in bulk, which perennially helps Moreau deliver a Chablis greater than the sum of its parts. The Chablis was picked over various dates, depending on the plot. The fruit was subject to a very gentle four-hour press, and the juice was fermented with natural yeasts (a rarity in Chablis). It was raised mostly in tank, yet the élevage was unhurried. This spent 20 months on lees, considerably longer than most Chablis of this level. These traditional methods, along with hand-harvesting, the quality of the terroir, low yields and the full ripeness levels at which the fruit is harvested help to explain the mouth coating texture, salty depths and the quality that is on offer.

At Mount Mary they aim to make a Chardonnay of great length that is able to reach a balance between complexity & finesse. Unashamedly Burgundian in concept, local Yarra Valley practices are employed to fully express the unique terroir, including the wine not going through Malolactic fermentation as Mount Mary's cool-climate leaves the fruit with ideal acidity when picked. Matured in 20% new French barriques with the remainder in older barrels and large casks and along with grape solids, this is a Chardonnay of impressive texture and complexity.

Kevin Cullen was a passionate believer in the quality of Margaret River as a wine region and particularly of its potential to become one of the great areas for both Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Here's his proof! [Biodynamic]