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As often happens with Calvert, the nose when young is slightly muted and more direct than exotic; pure and fine aromas, not bold and lush. The palate follows on accordingly, with clarity of fruit, roses and florals. Focussed, concentrated yet pure in the mid-palate, with its hallmark mineral texture, its firm but ultimately juicy on the finish. The vines are growing up and were seeing the puppy-fat turn to muscle.

Chateau de Beaucastel Hommage à Jacques Perrin is a monumental wine, made only in top vintages. The wine was first produced in 1989 as a tribute to Jacques Perrin, who died in 1978. Atypical for Chateauneuf-du Pape, the Hommage is a Mourvèdre dominant blend sourced from low-yielding old vines. Deeply concentrated and powerful, it possesses immense capacity to age.