'Rose were for long regarded as the illegitimate offspring of Champagne, recipients of coarse, heavy pressings wines partially masked by high dosage levels. Today they are routinely priced above 'normal' NV (or vintage) blends and are carefully made. Whether they really merit the premium is irrelevant: the market has spoken. But Laurent-Perrier is a special case: this is 100% pinot noir, rather than a blend coloured by pinot noir red wine. The full salmon colour is an immediate indication of its provenance, the bouquet complex and alluring, leading directly into the cherry and strawberry flavours of the long, sustained palate; excellent finish and aftertaste.' - 95 points, James Halliday Top 100

Based on 2018, described by Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon as 'a truly magical year', with oak aged wines from 2009, 2011 and all vintages from 2013 to 2017 inclusive that make up this impeccable house's perpetual reserve begun in 2012. Wonderfully complex aroma rises from the glass as soon as this is poured. So complex on the nose and uncompromisingly dry but well balanced on the palate. Lightly smoky but with no shortage of fine, ripe fruit in an interesting honeysuckle and lime spectrum. Clean and fresh and extremely long. This definitely deserves to be priced above regular non-vintage champagne. Not quite delicate. Not quite creamy. Just hits the right note for a superior blend. Drink: 2022-2030. Rating: 17+/20.

Now this half bottle is handy if you wish to toast yourself. Pol Roger is one of the world's power house champagne houses. Famously quoted by the likes of Winston Churchill and the champagne of choice for Her Majesty the Queen. An equal blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, with addition of 20% reserve wines. It is impressively fresh and vivacious with more depth than most aperitif styles.