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Its fair to say Luke Lambert hasn't looked back since 'relocating' his Syrah to the Tibooburra vineyard. This southwest sloping site lies in the southeastern corner of the Valley, near Gembrook, and might be the coolest microclimate of the Yarra. The site is expertly managed by Greg Kerr, the grower who planted the vineyard in 2001. The soils here are considered very unusual for the Yarra, comprising a seam of black volcanic topsoil over yellow clay with a smattering of granite rock throughout. Furthermore, the quality of the clonal material in Tibooburra supplies Lambert with deeper and darker Syrah fruit that also has more depth and structure. This is what drew him to the site and a good chunk of the reason the Syrah has become a touchstone example of cool-climate Yarra Shiraz.

Serrat Shiraz Viognier is a spicy, elegant, cool-climate style, sourced off a small plot of close-planted vines in Yarra Glen. Serrat is the family label of renowned winemaker Tom Carson and his wife Nadège. The fruit is hand-picked, lightly destemmed and co-fermented with a small amount of Viognier in small open fermenters. Following fermentation, the wine is pressed to 500L French oak puncheons for 11 months maturation.

Hoddles Creek 1er Pinot Noir is the flagship red from the Yarra Valley darlings. The 1er range stands as a benchmarknot just for the exemplary Hoddles Creek portfolio, but for the Yarra contemporary Yarra wine landscape. Every vintage, winemaker Franco dAnna assesses the fruit grown in the SRM block of his Top Paddock vineyard. If he judges it worthy, a vintage of 1er Pinot Noir goes into production. With 20-25% whole bunch, fruit purity is the goal. Aged in up to 35% new oak, it is bright with red fruit and a deep Burgundian heart. Hoddles Creek is considered by many to be one of the best (and the best value) wineries in the Yarra. This is its top shelf white. Drink now, or cellar with confidence.

Pale straw-green with a super-fine bead. This is very composed and complex, the 6 years on lees producing an array of different notes, some related to fruit others to that extended lees ageing. Sourdough crust, buttery pastry, green apples, toast, candied peel, white pepper and lime leaf all vie for attention. The palate reflects these flavours but also reveals stone fruit notes and a green apple crunchiness. The finish dry and savoury, the lemon-citrus acidity teasing out the length. A complex, refined wine that has depth of flavour, weight, texture and above all freshness.

Made by Ed Carr arguably the best sparkling wine maker in Australia. The Arras Brut Elite is another success story for the House of Arras with its amazingly clean and elegant flavours and textures. This is a wine that express sheer quality.

Paringa Estate Estate Chardonnay Mornington Peninsula The fruit for the Estate Chardonnay is sourced from low yielding estate vineyards, some of which are over thirty years old. Constant attention to detail in the vineyard and vine maturity produces fruit of outstanding quality. The fruit is handpicked, whole-bunch pressed, and the unclarified juice is fermented in new (approx 30%) and one-year-old French oak puncheons and barriques. Less stirring in barrel builds weight and complexity. Typically, the wine does not go through malolactic fermentation. Shop Paringa