Many of us wine drinkers have a soft spot for Chablis. Its with great reason too, given our climate and affi nity with seafood. A little over two months ago, we were thrilled when this wine hit our shores for the first time following a selective buying trip. Once again, it showcased its undisputed quality and notoriety in our tasting sessions. Established in 1850, this small family owned domain is the proven choice of so many when it comes to great Chablis. The estate comprises a mere 45 hectares of vines scattered throughout the region, grown on the famous Kimmeridgian limestone soils. Textbook in expression and style, super fi ne and elegant, this 2013 has perfectly poised, piercing acidity. This drives superb length of flavour on the featherweight light palate. Is there a better oyster wine?

The fruit for the 2016 Vat 9 Shiraz was sourced from Tyrrells super premium vineyards on the Ashmans property with an average vine age of 50 years. Predominately from the Weinkeller and Short Flat vineyards. Winemaking The blocks were all hand picked and sorted in the vineyard before arriving at the winery. All the fruit was then destemmed but not crushed, followed by fermentation in traditional open top concrete vats. After fermentation the wiens were matured in newer 2700L French oak casks for ten months.

A young and approachable white wine, this wine has been crafted to last a long time in the cellar. The well balanced palate contains fresh citrus elements supported by crisp acidity, leading to a clean finale.

The wine shows an amazing length of flavor and mouthfeel with strong, clean acid on the finish and some secondary characters derived from the slight solids ferment. A great example of Hunter chardonnay with its the citrus/acid backbone, which is a benefit of no malolactic fermentation.

Pale, straw colour with insinuations of green. Overt, ripe varietal fruit characters on the nose - pineapple, citrus and nectarine derived are from the warm vintage conditions. Mineral characters, orange blossom and almond meal along with some lees derived creaminess are all balanced within this multi-dimensional palate.

Premier Cru Montmain's unique terroir of very stony terrain produces a wine with very pronounced mineral aromas, extraordinary power and excellent ageing potential. This Chardonnay by William Fevre shows great structure with good length. Both accessible and very fresh, it shows fantastic concentration.

The Clos du Marquis 2014 is a blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc cropped at 33 hectoliter per hectare and matured in 50% new wood. Picked between 30 September and 13 October, it has a ripe, quite opulent bouquet with layers of blackberry, dark plum and incense, a touch of pencil lead with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a little pinched at the moment but it will "relax". The alcohol level is one of the highest ever at 13.85% and yet it it counterbalanced by its freshness. In fact, the finish is quite classic in style and provides a pleasant juxtaposition with the more generous aromatics - it will be interesting to see how they develop during their élevage.

The bouquet is an enticing mix of white field flowers, grapefruit, pear essence and brioche. Enriched with layers of nougat and nut-meal, the palate's fine, creamy texture is supported by toasted vanillin oak. A bright citrus and chalky lactic acidity adds restraint and length to finish the wine. 'This latest release from the partnership of Jeff Burch and Burgundian winemaker Pasca Marchand is one of the best. Comes off a high point in the Porongurups, with the fruit being naturally fermented and then given 10 months on yeast lees to gather complexity. Intensely powerful, this is a statement of classic, cooler-climate chardonnay. Has become one of the fi nest releases each year. 97/100' - Weekend West, Perth, 28 Jun 2014, by Ray Jordan.