There is genuine depth and texture from the old vines and the clay of Les Chemins d’Épernay but this opulence is vibrantly balanced by crystalline freshness and a long, classy finish. A superb and unique Champagne that clearly speaks of its terroir. If you love great white Burgundy, then this has a similar set of textural and mineral qualities.

The thrilling energy of this splendid season charges it with a vibrancy and definition that places this blend on a plateau elevated high above even the lofty heights that this cuvee has attained under the new Charles Heidsieck. In searching for any other entry non-vintage cuvee to which to compare it, I can fathom none short of the mesospheric heights of Krug itself. In sheer age (current Krug Grande Cuvee is only one year older) and depth of reserves, this Charles Heidsieck splendidly upholds its elevated position among Champagne's richer NVs... In sheer, breathtaking calibre for the price, this is the greatest Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve I can remember. It deserves to be the house champagne we all have chilled perpetually at the ready this year. Rating: 96/100.

The very low dosage of three grams per litre allows the iodine minerality of these chalky terroirs to sing through. Emblematic of the quality being achieved at Laherte today and reflecting the fruit’s tension and low-yield intensity, this offers a wonderful balance between penetrating, spicy and fleshy red fruit and salty, racy deliciousness. One of the great Meunier bottlings of Champagne.

Based on 2018, described by Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon as 'a truly magical year', with oak aged wines from 2009, 2011 and all vintages from 2013 to 2017 inclusive that make up this impeccable house's perpetual reserve begun in 2012. Wonderfully complex aroma rises from the glass as soon as this is poured. So complex on the nose and uncompromisingly dry but well balanced on the palate. Lightly smoky but with no shortage of fine, ripe fruit in an interesting honeysuckle and lime spectrum. Clean and fresh and extremely long. This definitely deserves to be priced above regular non-vintage champagne. Not quite delicate. Not quite creamy. Just hits the right note for a superior blend. Drink: 2022-2030. Rating: 17+/20.

'Rose were for long regarded as the illegitimate offspring of Champagne, recipients of coarse, heavy pressings wines partially masked by high dosage levels. Today they are routinely priced above 'normal' NV (or vintage) blends and are carefully made. Whether they really merit the premium is irrelevant: the market has spoken. But Laurent-Perrier is a special case: this is 100% pinot noir, rather than a blend coloured by pinot noir red wine. The full salmon colour is an immediate indication of its provenance, the bouquet complex and alluring, leading directly into the cherry and strawberry flavours of the long, sustained palate; excellent finish and aftertaste.' - 95 points, James Halliday Top 100

Ripe and juicy citrus aromas are touched by some floral perfumes, ozone minerality and a wet chalk freshness. The direct and focussed palate has plenty of bright citrus, clean-cut, driving acidity, some lovely autolysis-derived richness and a filigree weight.