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White gold in colour, limpid and brilliant with golden reflections. The first nose is toasted, grilled. After aeration, notes of ripe, slightly stewed, caramelized white-fleshed fruit appear. Seductively soft, sweet notes. Balanced in the mouth. We find these notes of fruit bringing fullness and roundness. A saline hint on the finish brings energy and length. The whole is structured with a noticeable, well-integrated woodiness.

Defaix's Petit Chablis is drawn exclusively from Kimmeridgian-based soils unlike most Petit that generally comes from the low-lying sites on Portlandian limestone to the north of the commune. It's not necessarily the type of limestone but its location that makes the difference, with Defaix's small parcel being very well situated for this level, high on the slopes of Milly. With juicy apple and stone fruit aromas and flavours, pulpy texture, a vibrant, cool close, it's a wine "on the fruit" as the French would say. It reflects both the depth of the vintage and the cool soils of the region. Certified organic.'An expressive nose blends notes of iodine and sea breeze with those of a mix of yellow orchard fruit. There is good richness to the very round and seductively textured flavors that possess evident salinity on the delicious finale. This should drink well almost immediately.' - Allen Meadows.

FABIEN COCHE, Bourgogne Chardonnay Grandes Coutures

Graceful chardonnay woven with whispers of new French oak. From the cool climate single vineyard; Coal River Valley, Tasmania. Handpicked on a fruit day on the full harvest moon, whole bunch pressed, wild ferment en new demi-muid. Matured for 12 months and bottled unfined and unfiltered with perfect natural balance.

Beginning with mineral grapefruit and flinty notes on the nose, this wine opens up superbly on the palate. Long, deep and subtle in flavour with crisp acid which completes a fine example of the style.

Light to medium-bodied, tight-knit with white peach, grapefruit, herb and mealy characters,well-balanced acid and a long fresh finish.