Felton Road really is a fine winemaker. This is its regular bottling and what a wine, with lush, dark cherry and mysterious foresty aromas. It's very ripe and rich and the palate has intensity and drive, with fresh acidity keeping it all singing.

DOMAINE HENRI MAGNIEN Gevrey Chambertin , Gevrey-Chambertin

The 2017 has an alluring nose, opening with charming bright fruit, sweet spice and inviting florals - all wrapped in lifting minerality. The palate shows effortless structure, supported by ripe red fruit and fine persistent tannins that flow across the mouth. The acidity is balanced and conducive to a long elegant finish. FROMM have always loved Pinot Noir and showed both faith and foresight that it could thrive in Marlborough, planting Pinot vines in 1990. Their first attempt at the variety validated this belief with International success and acclaim and consequently helped put both Fromm and Marlborough on the international Pinot Noir map. From here the region''s Pinot industry bloomed and is now easily New Zealand's largest Pinot Noir producing area. Fromm, though, has remained staunchly boutique choosing to produce no more than 7,000 cases a year. With a quality without compromise attitude Fromm also makes fine examples of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah and Rosa. All the wines are certified organic through BioGro.

Opening with dense blackberry/boysenberry fruit and a black olive savouriness the aromas then shift to reveal lifted qualities of purple florals and fragrant sweet spice. The palate shows a lovely weight and concentration of fruit, balanced by a charming elegance and finesse. Not at all shy on tannins (integrated and ripe).

DOMAINE MARQUIS D'ANGERVILLE Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains

Red cherries and strawberries along with notes of undergrowth and preserved lemon. Bright and juicy red fruit characters with a savoury back half of earth, leather and subtle dried herbs. The palate is of medium weight with graceful, fine tannins that lend it a plush quality throughout. Grapes were handpicked, keeping individual clones separate in small open fermenters. Some whole bunch fruit was added to ferments, enhancing aromatics and structural complexity. Fermentation was initiated by indigenous yeast (wild ferment). Each clonal parcel was basket pressed and filled to seasoned French oak barrels with full solids. All barrels were kept on lees to build palate, body and complexity. They were racked and blended just prior to bottling. Stephen Georges three hectare, dry-grown, Ashton Hills vineyard lies in the Piccadilly Valley sub region of the Adelaide Hills on a ridge just below the summit of Mount Lofty. Planted in 1982, its a quality site that, thanks to the humility and integrity of its gifted farmer, has been the source of some of South Australias most intriguing cool-climate wines, and certainly its most authentic and fascinating Pinot Noir. You dont need to spend much time in the Piccadilly Valley to realise why this area was granted sub-regional statusit is totally different to the rest of the Hills. In short, its much colder and wetter. Georges Estate vineyard lies at 570 metres above sea level and the vines shudder through some of the coolest vintage conditions in the country. Meanwhile, rainfall is a whopping 1200mm a year, well over double that of the Barossa. Whether its the lifted perfumes, elegant structure and Alpine freshness of the Pinot Noirs or the icy purity of the Riesling, Piccadilly Valleys bona-fide cool-climate imprint is never far away. A healthy portion of old-vines and the vineyards south-facing aspect afford George the luxury of late harvesting that plays a significant role in the personality of these wines. Terroir is one thing, how its worked is another, and Stephen George clearly has an intuitive touch and the drive to continually evolve. Most recently this evolution has resulted in George grubbing out all varieties except for Pinot Noir, and a little bit of Riesling, focusing his Pinot Noir on four specific clones selected from a line-up of 25 that he had tested. The Ashton Hills winery is incredibly basic, with an earth floor and next to no equipment whatsoever. The Pinot fruit is destemmed via a small, customised, gentle destemmer that keeps as many whole berries as possible. The fruit is then basket pressed, and the wine is made without any sulphur additions until bottling. Some whole bunches are included, and the percentage varies according to the style of the vintage. The red wines are mostly raised in aged, neutral French hogshead barrels. Having already cemented his living-legend status amongst his peers and compiled a storied CV that includes his role at Wendouree (since the 1980s) and twenty five vintages at the helm of Ashton Hills, you could forgive this reclusive winemaker for taking his foot off the gas. Not a bit of it. Stephen George is in fact making the best wines of his career.