Spicy, faintly floral aromas of stone fruit, grapefruit, lime juice and coriander are backed by matchstick-like oak and a hint of mineral. It's round and creamy, smooth and voluptuous, with a gentle, mouthfilling core of flavour and nougat-like complexity finishing with a hint of butter, gentle lemony acids and a faint smokiness. Crushed and pressed with full solids straight to oak (20% new), both primary fermentation and malolactic were natural. Elevage: 8 months on lees in oak before being racked and filtered in preparation for bottling. Hand-picked on 12th March 2018 First established in 1995, Toolangi Vineyards is located in the Yarra Valley adjoining the Toolangi State Forest. This Chardonnay is grown on fine clay loam and produces grapes which represent the unique site. Low cropped and hand harvested from 23 year old vines of I1OV3 clone grapes on D Block rows 35 55. The 2018 harvest will be remembered fondly by winemakers in the Yarra Valley. It was a rare season that gave above average yields and excellent quality fruit. Dry sunny conditions with cool overnight temperatures provided good natural acidity and concentrated wines at lower alcohol levels.

This unfiltered Chardonnay was made at Giaconda by Rick Kinzbrunner using traditional techniques. Quite sublime buttery richness with perfect balance of acid and oak integration.

PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY, Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune blanc

One of the rare Penfolds wines that is 100% single-regional, the Reserve Bin Chardonnay is sourced from super premium sites in the Adelaide Hills resulting in a fresh, mineral style that lies at the forefront of the modern Chardonnay style. A wine that will always be linked with 'White Grange', Penfolds Yattarna, it shows a palate of Granny Smith apples and lemon curd with a pure chalky texture.

McHenry Hohnen is the quintessential family owned business with Murry McHenry and David Hohnen being brothers-in-law and the winemaking now being handled by David's son-in-law Ryan Walsh. With decades of Western Australian winemaking and selling history behind David and Murray the wines being produced are of utmost purity and subtlety. The Burnside Chardonnay is a relative recent addition to the range and is a funky, wild little number with attractive stone fruit characters that are balanced by a beautiful natural acidity.

Pristine concentration and complexity of favour are the hallmarks of Simmonet-Febvre, a revered maker in Chablis. Stonefruits and ruby grapefruit with grilled nuts, owing no doubt to Simmonet-Febvre's insistence on ageing their Premier-Cru wines on lees for over a year. Has all the zippy-freshness you would expect from a high-level Chablis.

The bouquet is an enticing mix of white field flowers, grapefruit, pear essence and brioche. Enriched with layers of nougat and nut-meal, the palate's fine, creamy texture is supported by toasted vanillin oak. A bright citrus and chalky lactic acidity adds restraint and length to finish the wine. 'This latest release from the partnership of Jeff Burch and Burgundian winemaker Pasca Marchand is one of the best. Comes off a high point in the Porongurups, with the fruit being naturally fermented and then given 10 months on yeast lees to gather complexity. Intensely powerful, this is a statement of classic, cooler-climate chardonnay. Has become one of the fi nest releases each year. 97/100' - Weekend West, Perth, 28 Jun 2014, by Ray Jordan.