What wonderful spicy aromatics intertwined with delicious soft red fruits with lifted white floral, citrus overlays. Wonderfully textured and fulsome on the palate, there is balanced spine of mineral acidity that finishes fresh, zesty and leaves you wanting more. Delicious!

In some ways, this is the emblematic wine of the domaine. It was Michel Bettane, the influential French critic, who encouraged Francis Egly to bottle this single-vineyard wine separately, with the first release based on the 1989 harvest. This latest offering was bottled after the 2017 base had spent close to one year in cask before blending with 50% reserve wines from the 2016 vintage. The vinification and aging for both vintages took place in barrel. The fruit comes from old Pinot Noir vines in a single terroir known as Les Crayères. The vines here were planted in 1946, so they are now 75 years old (vines of this age are extremely rare in Champagne). The soil is barely 30cm deep, then it’s chalk, hundreds of metres down—hence the name of the site (craie is French for ‘chalk’; crayères references chalk quarries which likely once existed here). Les Crayères is situated mid-slope with a full south-facing exposure, not far from the estate’s cellars. The old vines are deeply rooted, giving the wine a classic mineral energy that weaves its way through the powerful, layered Pinot Noir fruit. The deep concentration is a product of the ripeness and low yields that the site and its ancient vines confer. The 2017 base is a tribute to the greatest sites of Ambonnay and the Egly-Ouriet domaine. Houses that emphasise blending may consider a 100% old-vine Ambonnay like this to be too intense; Egly gives it to you full throttle! This release has both profound depth and incredible finesse. It’s still early days for the nose (if you open it now, give it time), while the palate is already stunning: a layered yet chiselled, mineral mouth bomb. The dosage is only 2 g/L, and it’s invisible. As always, this unique expression of a singular terroir is built for food and aging. Give it two to three years, and it will be even better.

The C + C Blanc de Blancs is blended from nine parcels across both north and south-facing hillsides in Cramant and Chouilly, including Les Robarts and Le Mont-Aigu. The oldest vines date back to 1951. The average depth of the soils of these parcels is marginally deeper than Oiry, with silty clay overlaying the chalk. In Suenen’s plots on Cramant’s eastern slope—Les Robarts, Les Basses Croix, Les Fourches du Nord, Les Vignes de Mardu—the soils measure one metre before the roots meet the chalk. In Chouilly, it’s closer to 60 cm. This extra depth, along with a good dose of southern exposure, makes for a more hedonistic wine. The blend is split between Cramant (70%) and Chouilly (30%). Although tempted to bottle each village separately, Suenen has found the two villages work even better as a blend; the textural finesse of Cramant marries perfectly to the more layered personality of Chouilly. Again, the wine aged on lees for nine months in enamelled tank (50%) and in used Burgundy oak barrels and demi-muid. It then aged for 30 months in bottle with no fining, no filtration and no cold stabilisation.

Disg. Sep 23. First released in 1998, long before the concept of single-vineyard Champagnes became popular, this Blanc de Blancs was historically labelled Vieille Vigne de Cramant. Little has changed, save for the name, which is now inspired by 1960-planted Bourron du Levant, the vineyard from which most of the grapes come. The balance comes from a 0.5-hectare holding in the neighbouring terroir Le Fond du Bâteau (with 85-year-old vines). Both plots are at the heart of Cramant’s southeast-facing slopes on the flanks of the Butte de Saran. Basking in the first rays of the morning sun, these vineyards give wonderfully ripe, layered wines. The old vines’ deep root system combines with the terroir to bring a wine of glowing density and opulence. It offers a fascinating, concentrated and stone-fruited contrast to the other Larmandier cuvées (not to mention other producers’ Cramant wines). It remains a super-mineral wine, but you have more flesh, weight and body here. The winemaking is similar across each of Larmandier’s single-terroir wines. Here, it is spontaneous fermentation and malolactic fermentation, 12 months in large Stockinger barrels and no filtration. This cuvée, however, spends at least eight years in bottle on lees. The 2014 was disgorged with 2 g/L dosage.

The 2017 Champagne Suenen Montigny sur Vesle La Grande Vigne Meunier (Disg. TBA) is a true reflection of its terroir, showcasing the unique character of the Montigny sur Vesle region in Champagne, France. This wine, crafted by the renowned Suenen estate, is a stunning example of a single varietal Meunier champagne from the exceptional 2017 vintage. On the nose, delicate aromas of ripe red apples, juicy pears, and fragrant white flowers dance gracefully with hints of toasted brioche and subtle mineral notes. The pale golden hue in the glass is a sight to behold, leading to a palate that is both elegant and complex. Flavors of crisp apples and pears are joined by a touch of honeyed sweetness and a refreshing acidity, balanced perfectly by a creamy, lingering finish. This champagne is a true masterpiece, showcasing the skill and passion of Suenen's winemaking. It is a must-try for all champagne lovers.

The Mailly Grand Cru L'Intemporelle Millésimé 2018 is a true masterpiece from the renowned Champagne Mailly Grand Cru in France. This vintage 2018 wine boasts a vibrant golden hue, with delicate bubbles that dance effortlessly in the glass. On the nose, aromas of ripe apples, fresh lemon zest, and toasted brioche tantalize the senses. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and well-balanced, with a lively acidity that perfectly complements the rich flavours of crisp green apple, tangy citrus, and a touch of honey. The finish is long and luxurious, with a subtle mineral note that lingers on the tongue. This is a wine that truly captures the essence of the Champagne region, and is sure to impress even the most discerning of palates. Enjoy now, or cellar for a few years to enhance its already impressive complexity.

The Champagne Larmandier Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs (Disg. TBC) 2015 is an exceptional representation of a premier cru Champagne from the renowned Larmandier-Bernier estate in France. This 1500ml bottle, produced in the exceptional 2015 vintage, showcases the true essence of the terroir in which it was grown. On the nose, this Champagne offers an enticing bouquet of fresh citrus, green apple, and delicate floral notes. The pale golden colour is a testament to the wine's purity and elegance. On the palate, the Champagne Larmandier Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs delivers a crisp and refreshing experience, with a perfect balance of zesty acidity and creamy texture. Flavors of lemon, pear, and brioche dance on the palate, leading to a long and satisfying finish. Overall, this Champagne is a true expression of the Larmandier-Bernier house style, showcasing their commitment to producing exceptional wines that capture the essence of Champagne. A true delight for any Champagne lover.

Disg. Apr 2024. Les Chemins d’Avize debuted in 2009. For this cuvée, the Larmandier family vinifies fruit from two tiny plots in the heart of Avize (Chemin de Plivot, planted in 1955, and Chemin de Flavigny, planted in 1960). Both are chalky parcels with very little topsoil and lie on the lower slopes of Avize, not far from Agrapart and Selosse’s La Fosse vineyard. “Initially, it was really tough for the vines to grow here, the soil is so hard,” Arthur Larmandier told us. “Now, they make really, really great wines.” The winemaking is similar to the other cuvées, save for the use of smaller, neutral barrels due to the smaller quantities of wine produced. The wines age in bottle for a minimum of five years and are then disgorged by hand with only 2 g/L dosage. It’s a stunning, racy example of Avize, a little deeper than Terre de Vertus, though more delicate and less fleshy than this grower’s Vieille Vigne du Levant.

The 2015 vintage of Mailly Grand Cru Les Échansons is a stunning expression of Champagne from the esteemed Champagne Mailly Grand Cru estate in France. Upon pouring, the wine reveals a pale straw colour with delicate bubbles dancing to the surface. On the nose, aromas of ripe yellow apples, freshly baked brioche, and a hint of lemon zest entice the senses. The palate is greeted with a creamy effervescence, followed by flavours of crisp green apples, toasted almonds, and a touch of honey. The finish is long and refreshing, leaving a lingering sensation of minerality and citrus notes. This is a complex and elegant Champagne that will continue to evolve with age, making it a standout choice for any special occasion. Enjoy now or cellar for a few years to experience even greater depth and complexity.