The citrus rind and grapefuit lead the palate to an overall fine yet textural journey. Cape Mentelle Chardonnay had this distinctive minerally line too, apparent with focussed refreshing acidity. Faint nuancesof soft nougat and cashews also add to what is a harmonious balance and an elegant and length finish.

Pristine concentration and complexity of favour are the hallmarks of Simmonet-Febvre, a revered maker in Chablis. Stonefruits and ruby grapefruit with grilled nuts, owing no doubt to Simmonet-Febvre's insistence on ageing their Premier-Cru wines on lees for over a year. Has all the zippy-freshness you would expect from a high-level Chablis.

Sourced and grown in the Adelaide Hills, this is a fine example of how good Chardonnay from this region can be. This is a blend of 3 different cultivars of the Chardonnay grape. Bunch pressed and in part wild fermented. Partial malolactic fermentation imparts further complexity. A beautifully textured and complex wine.

There’s nothing mysterious or untoward in the winemaking for this beauty. It’s kept on skins for a short period, then pressed, juice fermented over a couple of weeks, and aged on lees in stainless steel for five months. As with all Giovanni Rosso’s wines, this is about site. Site, and the ancient grapes (mostly carricante) that are thought to have been grown on the slopes of Mt Etna for at least 1,000 years. So they’ve had time to acclimatise. It’s a gorgeous, zesty-herby white, soft and pillowy and all propped up by a precise and racy acidity. It’s super long, and just bordering on mouthwatering. Quite subtle flavours flitting around the edges, hiding in the shadows and peeking out when you’re not concentrating.