2019 is the new release of the Special Club from Marc Hebrat, and it looks to be another magnificent vintage for this much-loved producer. Marc Hebrart has been a member of the Club Trésors de Champagne or Special Club since 1985 and has continued their presence among the select producers in the club after Marc's son Jean-Paul assumed control. The blend here is 55% pinot and 45% Chardonnay from the villages of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ 1er Cru (65%), Aÿ Grand Cru (25%), Oiry Grand Cru (5%), and Couilly Grand Cru (5%). Richard Juhlin states that Mareuil-Sur-Aÿ should be a Grand Cru village, and when compared to the Champagnes of Ay, they are almost indistinguishable.

Disgorged November 2022. Les Longues Voyes translates as ‘the long way’, referring not only to the 25 kilometres that you need to travel from the Laherte estate to arrive at the vineyard but also to the wine’s extended aging: 18 months in barrel and a further 18-20 months in bottle. The fruit is sourced from a single hectare of biodynamic vines in Chamery, Montagne de Reims, owned by a good friend of Aurélien Laherte’s. The 35-year-old vines are rooted in clay and silt over a limestone base. The wine was made from a single four-tonne press of grapes, which fermented naturally and matured in old Clos des Epeneaux and Leroux barrels. There was no malolactic conversion, and the dosage was 4 g/L. So, the estate now has two vintage Blanc de Noirs released at the same time: Les Vignes d’Autrefois from Meunier and Les Longues Voyes from Pinot Noir. The first comes from a chalky subsoil and the second from limestone, and it is fascinating to compare the different structures that result. Fans of Pinot Noir on limestone should move to the front of the queue.

A pale-yellow hue with golden highlights enchants the eye. A bewitching bouquet of white flowers, with hawthorn and jasmine coming to the fore. On the palate a smooth, delicately buttery attack, this champagne reveals notes of white nectarines.