It’s a stunning, racy example of Avize, a little deeper than the Terre de Vertus, although more delicate and less fleshy than the Vieille Vigne du Levant.

Disgorged November 2022. Les Longues Voyes translates as ‘the long way’, referring not only to the 25 kilometres that you need to travel from the Laherte estate to arrive at the vineyard but also to the wine’s extended aging: 18 months in barrel and a further 18-20 months in bottle. The fruit is sourced from a single hectare of biodynamic vines in Chamery, Montagne de Reims, owned by a good friend of Aurélien Laherte’s. The 35-year-old vines are rooted in clay and silt over a limestone base. The wine was made from a single four-tonne press of grapes, which fermented naturally and matured in old Clos des Epeneaux and Leroux barrels. There was no malolactic conversion, and the dosage was 4 g/L. So, the estate now has two vintage Blanc de Noirs released at the same time: Les Vignes d’Autrefois from Meunier and Les Longues Voyes from Pinot Noir. The first comes from a chalky subsoil and the second from limestone, and it is fascinating to compare the different structures that result. Fans of Pinot Noir on limestone should move to the front of the queue.

At this price, you won't need to wait for a special occasion. Bichat Brut NV is French champagne at a not-so-French price. It's crisp, clean with a creamy mouth feel that punches well above its weight for French champagne in this price range.

Birchwood Wine Cylinder. Moet and Chandon Brut Impérial, with its perfect balance of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier has become one of the world’s most-loved Champagnes. Moet is characterised by bright fruitiness and elegant maturity. The palate reveals subtle pear, citrus and brioche notes.

White gold in appearance with a fine effervescence. Mineral, chalky notes on the nose lead to elegant aromas of citrus and white fruit. A lively a wine of great depth and persistent freshness that gives way to notes of bitter orange and lemon on the finish. Serving temperature: between 9°c and 11°c.

Its superb maturity tantalizes all the senses with a deep pink robe highlighted with glints of copper, an extremely delicate persistent effervescence, a nose of crushed strawberries, lime and liquorice underlined by a hint of roast coffee and cacao. The palate is entranced by a variation of gourmet sensations. The fresh, precise and taut attack gives way to reveal a supple, molten and heady structure. The finish imparts fruity notes underscored by a saline freshness. With the purity of its precise, gourmet aromatic structure, the Comtes de Champagne Rosé is perfectly in line with its predecessors and promises to offer excellent ageing potential.