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Ten Minutes By Tractor was the result of a the coming together of a series of journeys that began about 30 years ago. Centred around 3 vineyards that are approximately 10 minutes by tractor apart, the winery is now synonymous with terroir driven wines perfectly suited to Mornington Peninsula. Their estate Chardonnay is a wonderful modern interpretation of the variety with layers of complexity and fruit weight balanced by the ever present acid line that runs through the core of this fantastic wine.

McHenry Hohnen was founded in 2004 by pioneering Margaret River winemaker (Cape Mentelle) and third-generation farmer David Hohnen and his brother-in-law, grape-grower and wine retailer Murray McHenry. With an ethos of quality over quantity, we create small lots of expressive, authentic, fine wines, says Hohnen. Three vineyards, in the central-southern part of Margaret River, are farmed organically and/or biodynamically. Laterite Hills Chardonnay is a blend of material from these family-owned and farmed vineyards -- Burnside, Calgardup and Hazels. The wine takes its name from the generally lateritic soils of Margaret River south and is made in the same way as the three single-vineyard Chardonnays. Fruit is hand picked and whole bunch pressed, before undergoing wild yeast fermentation and six months maturation in French oak barriques (20% new). The wine is then transferred to tank for a further three months maturation on lees. It is clarified but not filtered before bottling.

Of all the premium white wines we sampled last year; it was the Soumah Hexham Chardonnay that rose to the top. This top class Yarra Valley Chardonnay features the perfect amount of oak and a moreish creaminess. Produced from small single vineyard plantings in the Warramate foothills of the Yarra Valley, Soumah Hexham Chardonnay is brilliant now but patience will be rewarded if cellared up to 5 years if you can keep your hands off it that long. One of the real movers and shakers of the industry in recent times, Soumah is without a doubt one to keep a very close eye on. This is a super complex and extremely alluring example. Produced from small single vineyard plantings in the Warramate foothills of the Yarra Valley, outstanding fruit quality works hand in hand with barrel derived complexities. This complexity around a mid to full bodied core lends its self just perfectly to seafood with the traditional butter sauce accompaniment.

David Bicknell is a Chardonnay perfectionist with a passion for terroir and contrasts in the characters of different vineyard sites. In the glass: Bright fine straw with a green hue. On the nose: Fabulous purity and lift with ripe, complex stonefruit combining with lees and struck match magic. On the palate: A complex funky monster! It shows tremendous depth and umami being satiny soft throughout with amazing refined power and balance and extraordinary length and persistence. Classy!

Grapes sourced from the 6-acre Robinson vineyard where the 25-year-old vines are rooted in black sand over brown sandy loam. North-facing site, harvested early on the 18th February. Warmer & more stable microclimate here generates a fleshier, more satin textured wine. The early harvest & partial malo provide the requisite mouthwatering crunch.A powerful & intense Chardonnay. Bright citrus & stonefruit, fig, spiced oak, flint, almost cider-like characters. Striking acidity & a lengthy finish.

Good flesh here though; medium-bodied, good weight and sweep of acidity with a crispness to the finish 95, 96 clone Chardonnay from two vineyards, one in Red Hill and one in Tuerong. Barrel ferment, lees stirred. 20% MLF. 15% new French oak. 10 months in the barrel. Sam, Kaspar and Will pick the fruit on the up-curve (i.e. crux of flavour and freshness) bearing in mind the warmer side of the Mornington Peninsula is part of the equation here.

Troy Payten and Ben Jones are making wines with soul & personality out of the Yarra Valley. They have a tremendous passion for wine, something that can be found in every glass of their wines. Fruit comes from Tarrawarra and is handled with all the classic chardonnay techniques. Oak maturation, malolactic fermentation and long lees contact. The result is a flinty style with notes of toast and whipped cream. Yum!

Jayden Ong working with some very fine Chardonnay from the upper Yarra Valley.