It’s a stunning, racy example of Avize, a little deeper than the Terre de Vertus, although more delicate and less fleshy than the Vieille Vigne du Levant.

Disgorged November 2022. Les Longues Voyes translates as ‘the long way’, referring not only to the 25 kilometres that you need to travel from the Laherte estate to arrive at the vineyard but also to the wine’s extended aging: 18 months in barrel and a further 18-20 months in bottle. The fruit is sourced from a single hectare of biodynamic vines in Chamery, Montagne de Reims, owned by a good friend of Aurélien Laherte’s. The 35-year-old vines are rooted in clay and silt over a limestone base. The wine was made from a single four-tonne press of grapes, which fermented naturally and matured in old Clos des Epeneaux and Leroux barrels. There was no malolactic conversion, and the dosage was 4 g/L. So, the estate now has two vintage Blanc de Noirs released at the same time: Les Vignes d’Autrefois from Meunier and Les Longues Voyes from Pinot Noir. The first comes from a chalky subsoil and the second from limestone, and it is fascinating to compare the different structures that result. Fans of Pinot Noir on limestone should move to the front of the queue.

The Champagne de Venoge Princes Tour Eiffel NV is a delightfully effervescent wine hailing from the iconic Champagne region of France. This particular vintage, NV, showcases the expert craftsmanship of Champagne de Venoge, a renowned producer based in France. Upon first pour, the wine displays a pale golden hue with a steady stream of delicate bubbles dancing in the glass. The nose is greeted with enticing aromas of crisp green apples, fragrant white flowers, and hints of brioche. On the palate, this Champagne reveals a perfect balance between freshness and depth. The initial burst of citrus flavors is followed by layers of ripe apricots and honey, all held together by a lively acidity. The finish is long and refreshing, leaving a lasting impression of elegance and finesse. Overall, the Champagne de Venoge Princes Tour Eiffel NV is a true representation of the exceptional quality and character of Champagne wines. Perfect for any celebration or special occasion, this wine is a must-try for all Champagne lovers.

Disgorged July 2024. (Formerly known as Expérience). The price here reflects the demand for a cuvée that is utterly unique in the Champagne world and the rarity (there is next to none to go around). Finally, we should not forget that this is a wine style that is extremely difficult to make. First, some background for those new to this wine. In 2002, Agrapart sought and (remarkably) received permission from the local authorities to begin experimenting with a small quantity of wine that he wanted to produce without adding any sugar: no chaptalisation and no additions for the secondary fermentation’s liqueur de tirage (the tricky part), nor the final dosage (liqueur d’expédition). Not using sugar and yeast for the liqueur de tirage (to prompt the second fermentation in the bottle) is actually against the AOC laws, which is why Agrapart needed permission. So how does Agrapart achieve the bottle fermentation? Instead of sugar, he uses must (grape juice) from the same vineyards that produce the wine, thus enabling him to produce a Champagne that is 100% the product of estate-grown grapes. It is also a lower-alcohol wine because the absence of sugar additions means the alcohol does not jump 1.5 degrees, as typically occurs with standard secondary fermentation. So, this wine rests at around 11.8% alcohol compared with 12.5% for the rest of the range. It’s also a wine that can age well; we recently tasted the first vintage, 2007, from magnum at the estate. It was in wonderful shape! The current release is an equal-parts blend from vineyards that contributed to the Avizoise and Minéral cuvées (Les Robarts in Avize and Les Bionnes in Cramant), ‘dosed’ with around 20% of the juice of 2020 from these same vineyards. It is this juice that drives the secondary fermentation in the bottle. Again, no sugar or yeast additions are used for all fermentation, and the wine is never fined or filtered. Regardless of the methodology, this is simply a magnificent, one-of-a-kind Blanc de Blancs: complex, floral and crystalline—without the traditional autolytic notes of a standard tirage, but instead, a purity and delicacy that is second to none. The finish is seriously long as well, streaked with chalk, sap and candied lemon notes.

Disg. Sep 23. First released in 1998, long before the concept of single-vineyard Champagnes became popular, this Blanc de Blancs was historically labelled Vieille Vigne de Cramant. Little has changed, save for the name, which is now inspired by 1960-planted Bourron du Levant, the vineyard from which most of the grapes come. The balance comes from a 0.5-hectare holding in the neighbouring terroir Le Fond du Bâteau (with 85-year-old vines). Both plots are at the heart of Cramant’s southeast-facing slopes on the flanks of the Butte de Saran. Basking in the first rays of the morning sun, these vineyards give wonderfully ripe, layered wines. The old vines’ deep root system combines with the terroir to bring a wine of glowing density and opulence. It offers a fascinating, concentrated and stone-fruited contrast to the other Larmandier cuvées (not to mention other producers’ Cramant wines). It remains a super-mineral wine, but you have more flesh, weight and body here. The winemaking is similar across each of Larmandier’s single-terroir wines. Here, it is spontaneous fermentation and malolactic fermentation, 12 months in large Stockinger barrels and no filtration. This cuvée, however, spends at least eight years in bottle on lees. The 2014 was disgorged with 2 g/L dosage.

The 2019 Champagne Laherte Frères Les Grandes Crayères Extra Brut is a masterpiece from the renowned Laherte Freres winery in the Champagne region of France. This vintage boasts a delicate, pale gold hue with fine bubbles that dance on the tongue. On the nose, notes of crisp green apple, hints of citrus and toasted brioche tantalize the senses. On the palate, the wine reveals layers of complexity with a perfect balance of freshness and richness. Flavors of ripe pear, lemon zest, and a touch of minerality lead to a long and elegant finish. This Extra Brut is a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship and expertise of Champagne Laherte Frères, making it a must-try for any champagne enthusiast. Enjoy it as an aperitif or pair it with seafood, creamy cheeses, or roasted poultry. Cheers to a truly exceptional wine experience.

In some ways, this is the emblematic wine of the domaine. It was Michel Bettane, the influential French critic, who encouraged Francis Egly to bottle this single vineyard wine separately, with the first release being from the 1989 vintage. This latest offering was bottled after the 2016 base had spent close to one year in cask before being blended with 50% reserve wines from the 2015 vintage. All the vinification and aging for both vintages was in barrel. The fruit comes from old Pinot Noir vines in a single terroir known as Les Crayères. The vines here were planted in 1946, so are now 75 years old (vines of this age are extremely rare in Champagne). Here the soil is barely 30cm deep, then it’s chalk, hundreds of metres down—hence the name of the site (craie is French for ‘chalk’, crayères references chalk quarries which likely once existed here). Les Crayères is situated mid-slope with a full south-facing exposure, not far from the estate’s cellars. The old vines are deeply rooted, giving the wine a classic, mineral energy that weaves its way through the powerful, layered Pinot Noir fruit. The deep concentration is a product of the ripeness and low yields that both the site and its ancient vines naturally deliver. The 2016 base is both a tribute to the greatest sites of Ambonnay and to the Egly-Ouriet domaine. Houses that emphasise blending may consider a 100% old-vine Ambonnay like this to be too intense; Egly gives it to you full throttle! This release is a wine of profound depth yet also great finesse. It’s still early days for the nose (if you open it now, give it time) while the palate is already stunning; a chiselled, mineral mouth bomb. The dosage is only two grams per litre and it’s invisible. An expression of a singular terroir, this is, of course, a unique wine that is, as always, built for food and for aging.

The Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Special Club Champagne Grand Terroirs de Chardonnay 2015 is a stunning representation of the terroir-driven wines of Champagne, France. This vintage showcases the exceptional quality of the 2015 growing season, with a brilliant golden hue and fine, persistent bubbles dancing in the glass. On the nose, delicate aromas of crisp green apple, lemon zest, and white flowers are complemented by a subtle minerality. On the palate, the wine is exquisitely balanced with a lively acidity and a creamy texture. Flavors of ripe pear, brioche, and a touch of almond linger on the long, refreshing finish. This Grand Terroirs de Chardonnay is a true testament to the expertise and passion of Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, and a must-try for any Champagne lover.