Nanny Goat is a Central Otago winery specialising in Pinot Noir. Its name derives from the fact that much of the country is rough, dry, mountainous and desolate – seemingly suitable only for goats. Apparently, the brand’s owner, Aussie John Valmorbida, was climbing up to a hilltop restaurant near Queenstown when the goat idea struck him. It is rather appropriate. Hand picked and destemmed the fruit was sourced exclusively from their vineyards in Queensberry before going into into small open top fermenters, with the final blend containing 26% whole bunch. The individual fermenters underwent a short pre-fermentation maceration before fermenting naturally and being left on skins for up to 32 days before pressing. After a brief period of settling, the wine was roughly racked, taking a small portion of light lees and transferred to 225L French oak barriques (27% new) where it underwent natural malolactic fermentation and matured for 11 months before being racked, blended and bottled. Typical of Queensberry Pinot Noir, the nose is dark and brooding yet beautifully perfumed. Blueberry and boysenberry notes are layered amongst florals suggestive of rose petal and violets. Toasted sweet baking spices are interwoven with dried herbs, black Doris plum and an intriguing whole bunch derived herbaceous lift. The palate is taut and powerful with powdery fine tannins up front lending a sinewy elegance. A fine streak of acidity offers a lively backdrop to the abundant berry fruits, presenting a wine that is both powerful and dense yet beautifully light on its feet.