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DOMAINE MICHELE & PATRICE RION Vielles Vignes, Chambolle-Musigny

Made with fruit grown on 60+ year old vines, the Côte de Nuits Villages Vieilles Vignes is a light, bright Pinot with aromas of light spice, pot pourri and red berries. Grapes are grown in limestone soil using biodynamic viticulture. The wine is 25-30% whole bunch, fermented with indigenous yeast with minimal added sulphur. As with all Galeyrand wines, this example is certified organic. It is aged in oak barrels, a maximum of 20% new.

Giant Steps is a complex Pinot Noir with terrific varietal character. The nose shows rose petal, dark cherry and tomato leaf aromas and the palate is fleshy but tight, with savoury, dusty notes and silky tannins.

This 20ha vineyard was planted on red clay loam soil at Woori Yallock in 2001 by Lou Primavera, with whom Giant Steps has a long-standing grape-supply relationship. Pinot Noir (114, MV6 and G8V3 clones) grown here on the north and north east facing slopes at 230m is noted for its complex structure and pronounced perfume. The 114 and MV6 are fermented as whole bunches in open vats, while the G8V3 is destemmed, given a long cold-soak and fermented separately to enhance its aromatic contribution. All ferments use indigenous yeasts and the whole-bunch components are periodically foot-stomped to release additional juice. The wines are pressed to 228 litre, French barriques (about 8% new) for 11 months before blending and bottling without fining or filtration.

Although this Pinot noir's deep purple colour is not necessarily an indication of quality, its intensity is a magnificent and seductive feature. The usual Dry River aromas of Christmas spice, pipe tobacco and plum are all in attendance. Initially this wine seems savoury, dark and brooding but elegant red berry and raspberry characters are not to be missed. This tension between dark and light, spice and fruit, opulence and restraint is a result of the blend of the three vineyards, Dry River, Craighall and Lovat with all three contributing their specific vineyard characteristics to the final wine. The juicy, sappy and dense fruit fills out the palate providing a full and fleshy mouth-feel. The acidity provides focus and a thoroughfare for the wine towards the back with a dapple of oak influence for support and additional complexity. While transparent tannins are no hindrance to the front palate, the soft nature of this wine is not to be misjudged.

The Yarra Yering Pinot Noir is produced from what are amongst the oldest Pinot Noir vines in the Yarra Valley. Always aristocratic, fragrant with intense aromas of sweet strawberry and ripe plums, the Yarra Yering Pinot rounds out with mouthfilling notes of the same with a length hard to ignore.