Roberto Voerzio Fossati Barolo The Fossati is a descentdaent of the Fossati Case Nere 10 Anni Riserva. This wine offers a dual education in the power and robustness of relatively younger vineyard Barolo (it is more Barolo than La Morra) and the lamentable predictability of Italian bureaucratic nonsense. Owing to a change in the regulations, Roberto Voerzio had to change tack from his doppio cru reserve Barolo, known as Fossati Case Nere, as producers can only put the name of the winery, the region, sub-region or the particular cru on the label. You might think this is a reasonable stipulation, and, in truth, it is. What was so predictably lamentable is that it took so long. Now Roberto keeps the Case Nere for his Riserva and the Fossati for the Young Turk of Barolo that we may enjoy now. The 2015 was the first vintage of this wine.

Roberto Voerzio Cerequio Barolo The south/southeast-facing vineyard of Cerequioone of the most prestigious Crus in the commune of La Morra if not all of Barolosits at 270-320m asl. The older vines are pruned for low yields with an aggressive green harvest followed by trimming the bunches to about 500g of fruit per plant. The fruit is harvested by hand (in late September, early October) and fermented on indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks. The wine is then aged for two years in older French oak barrels and 20 hectolitre botti followed by an additional eight months in tank. It spends further eight months in bottle before release.

Great finesse and aromatic complexity, distinctly floral spicy, savoury, balsamic in its expression. The nose is vivid and compound. The texture is focused. An extremely elegant cru, feminine and full of character. Paolo Scavino owns 29 hectares entirely in the Barolo area and works on 20 Barolo historical crus located in Castiglione Falletto, Barolo, La Morra, Novello, Serralunga d'Alba, Verduno and Roddi. The Scavino family distinguishes itself from the beginning by their scrupulous care of the vineyards and passion for terroir. Their core beliefs is the supremacy of the viticulture above the oenology therefore the focus is the care of the vines in order to grow ripe and healthy grapes. In winemaking minimal and equal intervention are sought, to preserve natural diversities, terroir.

Saracosa is inspired by the ‘Super Tuscans’ – a style first developed in the 1970s. These wines kickstarted the region’s renaissance and became some of the most exclusive and expensive in the world. Saracosa is from the Barbanera family estate, where half the vineyards are in the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, and the remainder just beyond. In the 5-Star 2017 vintage Saracosa’s old vines delivered exceptional concentration. Dense, dark cherry and chocolatey tones make this a serious choice for pasta with pork ragù or bistecca alla fiorentina (steak with cannellini beans in tomato sauce).

If you enjoy discovering some of the thousand or so grape varieties most people have never heard of, try this. Aside from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, local varieties such as Refosco provide original and distinctive wines in refreshing, food friendly styles. Picco Attila was aged in large oak botti (vats) and has flavours of dark damson, fig and prune. Winemaker Alessandro Gallici likes to serve this wine with rich game or creamy polenta with pumpkin, a local favourite.

Tim Atkin MW says Sicily is “now one of the most exciting wine regions in Europe, blessed with a combination of abundant sunshine, varied terroirs, good indigenous grapes.” Plus, it has the investment to make the most of these advantages. This gorgeous Syrah comes from David di Prima, whose grandfather Gaspare planted the vines decades ago. The vineyards lie on high hills overlooking the Lago Arancio (Orange Tree Lake) reservoir. Originally a river, it was dammed in the 1950s. On rare occasions the water level drops to reveal the ruins of a Moorish temple. With deep colour, cherry, spice and chocolate character, this Syrah goes well with grilled red meats and full flavoured local dishes such as aubergine caponata or cucuzza squash bake.