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Is this Australia's best Chardonnay? If not then it shares the rarified air reserved for only the finest examples. Rich yet restrained, with mineral notes, cashew and almond meal, amazing fruit complexity and wonderful length...why not try the benchmark?

Brilliant clear pale golden yellow. White flowers, apricot, white peaches. Intensely powerful and elegant aromas. Freshness, round, rich and full-bodied. Fully expressive of the terroir. Great finesse and freshness. A pleasant light acdity is well balanaced with round fleshy fruitiness.

Cuvée du Pandoréa Meursault Six suppliers enable this plush Meursault, built in the traditional mould of ripe stone fruits, buttery viscosity and ample scents of toasted hazelnuts and generous oak. Inimitably of place, this is a wine for those pining for flavour and textural amplitude, in an era of linear expressions. A top tier wine built for cellaring or earlyish approachability, as long as the drinker does not mind a rail of phenolics and salubrious, cinnamon-scented oak. Expressive. Exotic. Absolutely delicious.

Cuvée du Perce Neige Bourgogne Blanc A soft and delicious introduction to the software behind the greatest database of Chardonnay in the world, written by one of its greatest programmers. Laurent Ponsot. A blend of different parcels, sourced across a litany of trustworthy growers and venerated communes in Burgundy. Yellow fruit accents are framed by a wisp of oak, a waft of phenolics and a crunchy skein of mineral pungency. The finish is long and firm, yet this is a wine of immense versatility at the table to be enjoyed on the earlier side.

Biodynamic. Eddy Faller explains that his Altenbourg Pinot Noir exhibits a more velvety structure than the Schlossberg-raised wine (below). To highlight each wine’s origins, the winemaking is almost identical, with a 10-day cold soak, followed by up to two weeks on skins, partial whole-bunch fermentation and extended aging in predominantly old oak. Plantings are 10,000 vines per hectare using mass selections from the Clos des Epeneaux in Pommard. To recycle Pigott’s line for the 2020 release, ‘In a blind tasting you could easily mistake this for a top 1er Cru wine from Beaune in Burgundy!’