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The largest estate in St Emillion, Laroque has been in the Beaumartin family since 1935, but has been completely revitalised and garnered a cult following in the last decade. The vineyards were originally put down in the 18th Century, with the current vines planted in the 1960s. David Suire has taken in the mantle of winemaker with aplomb - his most recent releases being consistently excellent. The property also produces fruit for wines sold as Chateau Peymouton and the estates second wine Les Tours de Laroque.

A measured yet powerful grip holds interest from beginning to end of the palate. This is just dripping with salinity from crushed stones, graphite and slate - a physical presence that balances beautifully with the fleshy black cherry and damson fruits, and the chocolate shavings. An excellent quality Lassegue, hard hitting and muscular but with pace and persistency.

A stones throw from the famed Chateau Beychevelle, the estate is set in the south of the St Julien appellation and notable for vitality, finesse and elegance. The wine here is produced by Patrick Maroteaux whose increasingly influence is in turn elevating the quality and reputation of these wines.