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One of the very greatest estates of Bordeaux, Château Mouton Rothschild is in the commune of Pauillac in the Haut-Medoc, 50km north-west of the city of Bordeaux. Its Chateau wine or grand vin is among the worlds most highly-rated and expensive. Excluded from the highest rank (Premier Cru or First Growth) of the famous Bordeaux Classification of 1855, Mouton was finally promoted in 1973 after decades of lobbying by Baron Philippe de Rothschild, who ran the estate from 1922 until his death in 1988. Mouton was first in the region to bottle at the estate, rather than shipping its wine to merchants for bottling elsewhere. Since 1924 artists including Braque, Dali, Picasso, Henry Moore, Miro, Chagall, Kandinsky, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, David Hockney and Lucian Freud have been commissioned to produce label images. Mouton, uniquely among the First Growths, remains in the hands of the same family as it was at the time of the 1855 Classification. The vineyards are on slopes with gravel-based soils leading down to the Gironde estuary and total 75ha 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. The Chateau wine is (unusually) fermented in large oak vats and then matured in new oak barrels for between 19 and 22 months. Total production of the grand vin is 20,000 dozen or less. There is a second wine, Le Petit Mouton, established in 1993. The grand vin is noted for its flamboyance exotic, powerful aromas of cassis, minerals, tobacco leaf and graphite, an opulent palate and impressive length of flavour.

Château Mouton Rothschild is the work of one man, the legendary Baron Philippe, who is solely responsible for this giant of Bordeaux. Taking charge in 1923 until his death in 1988, he created something the world will always be in debt for. He also started the tradition of getting an artist to design a label for every vintage, a tradition that continues to this day. In 2009, the wine almost transcends perfection. A quite low alcohol percentage given the ripeness of the fruit, the bouquet is reminiscent of cigar box and graphite with violets and cassis playing a part. The palate is both restrained and concentrated, a impressive result indeed. The structure of the wine is hidden somewhat by the exuberant fruit, yet it is that structure that will see this extraordinary wine cellar for the good part of half a century!

Without a doubt one of Bordeaux's most famous vineyards, Cheval Blanc lies on the border of Pomerol and is also easily the most important estate in St-Émilion. Uniquely a blend dominated by Cabernet Franc, Cheval Blanc's wines have a powerful bouquet which is spicy and rich which is followed by fruit that is soft, mellow and liquorous. Matched only by Pétrus in the realm of vigour and concentration, Cheval's exuberance is not to be missed. With this latest release, the 2009, the wines are bordering on immortal. A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, this super-smooth, velour textured and opulent red wine shows rambunctious flavours of raspberries, blueberries, liquorice and a smidge of menthol. Will be fascinating to watch this

Chateau Lafite Rothschild is one of the most renowned properties in the Médoc. Owned by Baron Eric de Rothschild and located in the north of the Pauillac appellation, Lafite Rothschild is also one of the largest Médoc estates. It has 95 hectares of vineyards planted with Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Merlot (20%) and Cabernet Franc (10%). Lafite Rothschild's vineyards lie on deep gravel beds (up to 5 metres thick) over marl and limestone. Of all the Médoc Grand Crus, Lafite Rothschild can be the most beguiling and difficult to understand. It is never the most powerful, yet, along with Margaux, possesses the most exquisite bouquet of any Médoc wine. It has the elegance, balance and harmony that epitomises claret at its very best.

Another terrific success for the flagship estate (a 92-acre vineyard situated on the famed limestone and clay-rich slopes of Cote Pavie) of Chantal and Gerard Perse, the 2011 Pavie is composed of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 2011 may be the biggest, richest, most massive wine of the vintage. With thrilling levels of concentration, tremendous purity, high but sweet tannin, a skyscraper-like mouthfeel, and terrific intensity, depth and palate presence, this larger-than-life effort will require 5-8 years of cellaring, and should age effortlessly over the following 25-30 years.