DOMAINE CONFURON COTETIDOT Lavaut St-Jacques 1er cru, Gevrey-Chambertin

Thomas Bouley is very much the insiders secret, more famous with his fellow vignerons than with collectors chasing the next 'superstar' seen on social media. That Thomas resists putting his name on the front label of his wines (preferring to keep his father's) is typical of his humble and low key approach. Based in Volnay may also add to his relative anonymity, however we suspect this is changing rapidly as word gets out of just how spectacular his wines are, and of the continual improvement seen since he began working with his father in the early 2000's. Meticulous attention to detail in both the vineyard and winery are notable here, and key to why Thomas is so highly regarded by his peers. Yields are moderate, and in the cellar whole cluster ferments are used more with his clay rich sites (Pommard Fremiers, Volnay Clos des Chenes), while those with thin white soils (Pommard Rugiens-Hauts, Volnay Caillerets) are largely destemmed. New oak use is minimal, and each wine spend two winters on fine lees before bottling.

The maritime climate of the Mornington Peninsula creates the perfect conditions to enhance the sappy plum and berry flavours in this wine. Secondary characters of truffles and cigarbox will develop with careful ageing.

“The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes is showing beautifully, displaying lively crushed violet, cranberry, red cherry, licorice and dried herb aromas. Full-bodied, elegant and fitted with velvety tannins, it is well-balanced by fresh acidity, closing with a long-lasting finish. As usual, it's a blend of very old vines from two parcels in Charbonnières and Les Esquirons. Only 4,000 bottles produced.” 93-95 points Nicolas Greinacher, Vinous