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Pale straw-green with a super-fine bead. This is very composed and complex, the 6 years on lees producing an array of different notes, some related to fruit others to that extended lees ageing. Sourdough crust, buttery pastry, green apples, toast, candied peel, white pepper and lime leaf all vie for attention. The palate reflects these flavours but also reveals stone fruit notes and a green apple crunchiness. The finish dry and savoury, the lemon-citrus acidity teasing out the length. A complex, refined wine that has depth of flavour, weight, texture and above all freshness.

Simply named from our address at Coldstream, the 864 range is a showcase of highly detailed micro-selections from the most exceptional single vineyard sites in the Yarra Valley. Sourced from the Henk Vineyard, Aqueduct Block. Planted in the red volcanic soils of Woori Yallock in 2008 using the Dijon clone 95. Fermented then matured in French oak barrels (20% new) on its gross lees for 10 months followed by a further six months in tank before bottling. Complex from the outset - struck match, white nectarine, fennel seed, white flowers, lime skin and dried pear. The impression is of it being crystalline and almost floral. The flavours carry over on to the palate with background flecks of mineral, the subtlest notes of toast and vanilla bean. This is taught and linear but with a glassy texture which carries the wine to a long persistent finish. Refined mod-Oz destined for the long haul.