Benjamin Benoit is fast becoming one of the Jura’s most exciting voices. Working in Pupillin with traditional methods and minimal sulphur, his site-specific wines offer a precise, elegant expression of Jura terroir. Cellier Saint Benoit sets a new standard for quality in the region. Grown on classic marl soils, La Marcette Chardonnay is whole cluster pressed and aged in neutral barrels. A site-expressive wine that balances depth with a finely structured profile.

Organic. Chenin Blanc. This small, enigmatic vineyard-cum-appellation on the north bank of the Loire River traces its roots back to the Cistercian monks of the 12th century, who, for good measure, also planted the legendary Coulée de Serrant next door. Its name, The Monks’ Rock, also refers to the schist bedrock and soils littered with volcanic rocks. Tessa Laroche is one of only 12 vignerons to own a parcel in this prestigious vineyard that sits high atop the wider Savennières appellation. The wines of Roche-aux-Moines once produced what became a house wine in the court of Napoleon Bonaparte, and today, Tessa Laroche reminds us why Savennières was once considered among the most prized French wines. To reach this plateau, Laroche declassifies the fruit from any younger vines and yields are kept extremely low, usually around 30 hl/ha. Even then, the grapes are harvested at perfect ripeness over a series of six tris or pickings. In the cellar, the grapes ferment through indigenous yeasts and the wines age for 18 months on lees in a mixture of used barrels (220 and 400-litre) and 20-hectolitre foudre. Unlike in the past, it undergoes full malolactic conversion every year, and the only sulphur addition takes place at bottling. The resulting wine is, to quote Jon Bonné (The New French Wine), “a case study in Chenin Blanc intensity”. From a year Tessa Laroche rates as her most successful to date, the 2022 is a true terroir wine—with all guns blazing. Climbing out of the glass, the delightfully fleshy Chenin fruit is complemented by flecks of the flinty, dark-hued minerality that helps make this vineyard so distinctive. Laroche’s wines take less time to blossom than those made by her mother, Monique, yet this vintage could easily age, with benefits, for 10+ years.

Subtle notions of toast have a lovely tinge of lemon and roasted hazelnut on the nose. Lively mousse on a tender palate bubbles with toasty, nutty autolysis. As it warms up, the mousse softens and shows a sunny roundness of yellow stone fruit that sits well with the toasty yeast notes. Decanter

Nestled between La Marcette and Champ-Berrand, Les Charots in one of Pupillin’s smaller lieu-dits. It sits on a very steep slope under La Marcette on orange-tinted soils rich in iron. There’s a lot of yellow Bajocian limestone, too, which Benjamin finds gives this wine a more chiselled personality and citrusy, mineral edge. From 30-year-old vines, this was first made in 2021. To emphasise the different terroirs of each parcel, the winemaking for all the Chardonnays remains very similar. All the grapes are pressed as whole bunches into used 600-litre barrels for fermentation and 12 months of lees-aging. Benjamin then decants off the gross lees, and the wine rests on clean lees in stainless steel for a further six months, allowing him to bottle the wines without filtration. It’s a stunning wine, well summed up by the note below.

The Cellier Saint Benoit Arbois Pupillin Courbes Raies Chardonnay 2022 is a stunning example of the Jura region's mastery of cool-climate Chardonnay. Aromas of crisp green apple and ripe pear are complemented by delicate notes of toasted almond and a touch of honey. On the palate, the wine is vibrant and refreshing, with a bright acidity that balances out the creamy texture. The limestone soils of Pupillin lend a mineral complexity to the wine, adding layers of flint and wet stone to the already complex flavour profile. The 2022 vintage is a standout, with a beautiful pale gold colour and a long, lingering finish. This is a wine that will continue to evolve and develop over the next few years, making it a great addition to any cellar. A true gem from Cellier Saint Benoit that showcases the best of Jura's Chardonnay.

Biodynamic. Primarily responsible for the Weinbach we know today, Catherine Faller’s mother, Colette Faller, was one of the legends of Alsatian wine. Sadly, Madame Faller passed away in early 2015 and, like her daughter Laurence and husband Théo before her, is now immortalised by a wine bearing her name. This cuvée comes from 50- to 60-year-old vines in the Bonnes Terres terroir, lower down on the Schlossberg slope, where the soils are deeper and sandier. The fruit here tends to be picked a touch later. Accordingly, the register of flavours is more intense, running from white flowers to tropical fruits and citrus fruit zest. The wine’s power is balanced by great freshness and verve. Even though it comes entirely from Schlossberg, some of the vines fall outside the Grand Cru boundary, so it cannot be labelled as such. The domaine has applied for Premier Cru status. But no matter, it offers Grand Cru quality in the glass. This gorgeous dry Riesling was raised for 11 months in old oak casks and bottled unfiltered.