Disgorged November 2022. Les Longues Voyes translates as ‘the long way’, referring not only to the 25 kilometres that you need to travel from the Laherte estate to arrive at the vineyard but also to the wine’s extended aging: 18 months in barrel and a further 18-20 months in bottle. The fruit is sourced from a single hectare of biodynamic vines in Chamery, Montagne de Reims, owned by a good friend of Aurélien Laherte’s. The 35-year-old vines are rooted in clay and silt over a limestone base. The wine was made from a single four-tonne press of grapes, which fermented naturally and matured in old Clos des Epeneaux and Leroux barrels. There was no malolactic conversion, and the dosage was 4 g/L. So, the estate now has two vintage Blanc de Noirs released at the same time: Les Vignes d’Autrefois from Meunier and Les Longues Voyes from Pinot Noir. The first comes from a chalky subsoil and the second from limestone, and it is fascinating to compare the different structures that result. Fans of Pinot Noir on limestone should move to the front of the queue.

Louis Roederer Brut Nature Deluxe Rosé 2015 exemplifies innovative craftsmanship and terroir expression in Champagne. This cuvée is crafted from Premier Cru fruit in Cumières, blending 50% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay and 13% Meunier, and stands out as a collaboration with designer Philippe Starck. A portion of the ripest Pinot Noir is cold-infused and blended with the Brut Nature base, then co-fermented for complexity. The wine is bottle-aged for six years on lees and finished with zero dosage, resulting in extraordinary purity and depth.