LARMANDIER-BERNIER Terre de Vertus Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs, Champagne

Chamapagne Rosé is a true delight to the senses and Billecart-Salmon rightly takes its place in the top echelon. A vibrant Salmon pink colour greets the glass, with a long, smooth, delicate, elegant and refined palate to follow. Without the price tag that others of this quality demand, this is a Champagne that all must enjoy at least once.

This unique cuvee is respectfully composed of the three champenois grape varieties - Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Entirely vinified in oak, Sous Bois (under wood) totally masters the art of blending by renewing the ancestral spirit and savoir-faire of the original Champagnes. The nose contains defined aromatics of dry fruits and fresh citrus, coupled with finely buttered seductive notes that expresses the mature complexity linked to the vinification in oak barrels. The palate is bursting with flavours of grilled brioche, vanilla and toffee, complimenting the refreshing texture and exceptional finish.

With a mild, wet winter followed by a very dry spring, 2014 proved to be full of surprises and variable weather. Broad and well-structured on entry, the palate is perfectly balanced and complemented by some saline and fresh raspberry notes.

The C + C Blanc de Blancs is blended from nine parcels across both north and south-facing hillsides in Cramant and Chouilly, including Les Robarts and Le Mont-Aigu. The oldest vines date back to 1951. The average depth of the soils of these parcels is marginally deeper than Oiry, with silty clay overlaying the chalk. In Suenen’s plots on Cramant’s eastern slope—Les Robarts, Les Basses Croix, Les Fourches du Nord, Les Vignes de Mardu—the soils measure one metre before the roots meet the chalk. In Chouilly, it’s closer to 60 cm. This extra depth, along with a good dose of southern exposure, makes for a more hedonistic wine. The blend is split between Cramant (70%) and Chouilly (30%). Although tempted to bottle each village separately, Suenen has found the two villages work even better as a blend; the textural finesse of Cramant marries perfectly to the more layered personality of Chouilly. Again, the wine aged on lees for nine months in enamelled tank (50%) and in used Burgundy oak barrels and demi-muid. It then aged for 30 months in bottle with no fining, no filtration and no cold stabilisation.

Base 2021, Disg. April 2024. Latitude is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus. These vineyards are on roughly the same latitude, hence the name, which also hints at the breadth of texture that wines from these sites—having more clay in the soil—tend to offer. In the cellar, Larmandier uses mostly large casks (almost all the wood now comes from Stockinger in Austria). Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place naturally, and there is no filtration. Latitude matures in bottle for more than two years before disgorgement and dosage at low, extra-brut levels (in this case, 3 g/L) at least six months before release. This bottling is based on the 2021 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004. Upcoming releases will include fruit from some terrific vineyards in Villeneuve and Bergères, which will only further buttress the quality.