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Sourced from dry-grown, hand tended vines in the north east of Victoria, this Beechworth Chardonnay from Savaterre will surely convince even the most hardened Chardonnay critic that modern Australian Chardonnay is of supreme world-class standard. Keppell Smith handcrafts a Chardonnay of utmost power and concentration that produces a length of flavour that borders on the immortal.

Elanto Vineyard, a 10.6-hectare high-density site on the Mornington Peninsula, is managed by acclaimed winemaker Sandro Mosele and his team. With 11,000 vines per hectare—four times the typical density—yields are limited to 300-500g per vine, enhancing concentration and power in the wines. Organic practices, deep soil cultivation, and volcanic basalt soils rich in iron stone encourage site-specific expression, while the vineyard's southeast aspect and cool sea breezes preserve natural acidity and freshness. The three Chardonnay vineyards—Verge, Buckshot, and Seawinds—span 4 hectares on the lower slopes, where silt over clay transitions to lighter, gravelly soils rich in buckshot. The cool southerly airflow and soil profile preserve natural acidity and enhance mineral notes. Each vineyard was harvested and vinified separately, with hand-sorted fruit whole-bunch pressed directly into a mix of new and older French oak barriques for natural fermentation. After 10 months in barrel, the wine spent an additional two months in large concrete vats before bottling. Brilliant pale straw colour with a subtle glimmer of green around the outskirts and a watery hue. Intense white peach, nectarine and dried honey scents are complimented by delicate biscuity oak, citrusy nougat and subtle flinty mineral elements. Long and showing a Burgundy like refinement across the palate, flavours of white peach, nectarine and citrus are brimming with freshness. Rich and concentrated yet light on its feet, notions of biscuity nougat, dried honey, faint crème brulee, subtle cashew and delicate infusions of flinty minerals lend further complexity. Possessing outstanding power and a cool tone, it concludes long and finessed with a gentle creamy textural feel. Drink over the next 5-6 years. Alc. 13.5%

Yarra Yering, well known for their pristine and elegant red wines, also make one of the Yarra Valley's premier Chardonnays. Made solely from the original 1969 plantings, the Yarra Yering Chardonnay is fermented traditionally in open top fermenters and crafted to age in bottle for extended periods. The wine goes through 100% malolactic fermentation which adds complexity and roundness without foregoing natural acidity and structure. Aged in 40% new French oak, this classic white wine combines intense opulence with finesse & textural flintiness.

Yarra Yering is not only a Victorian icon, but a true Australian wine treasure. The Underhill Shiraz is sourced exclusively from the 1974 planted block of Shiraz at the western-most extremity of the vineyard. Drawn from soils with a higher clay base which has resulted in a wine of a more masculine bent offering darker fruits and spice with chewier tannins and a savoury undertone.

Pristine concentration and complexity of favour are the hallmarks of Simmonet-Febvre, a revered maker in Chablis. Stonefruits and ruby grapefruit with grilled nuts, owing no doubt to Simmonet-Febvre's insistence on ageing their Premier-Cru wines on lees for over a year. Has all the zippy-freshness you would expect from a high-level Chablis.

This delightful Yarra Valley Light Red Blend is 50% Shiraz, 50% Pinot Noir, and is beautifully robust yet soft and generous. In the glass: Medium red purple. On the nose: Beautifully perfumed black cherry, blood plum, whole bunch spice and peppery lift. On the palate: Elegant yet powerful with a fine web of tannins underpinning the complex mixof silken red and black fruit. It features notes of clove and five spice with bright acidity.

Margaret River is a world renowned Chardonnay producing region and Pierro can rightfully stake a claim as to why. Incredibly complex, it is a tangle of fine-boned acid, lees complexity, pristine fruit and the most detailed use of good quality oak. Extremely enjoyable now, but will benefit from short to medium term cellaring.

Derwent Estate Calcaire Chardonnay offers a complex bouquet of lime, nuts and gentle spice. This modern style of Chardonnay offers a creamy palate of citrus fruits and white pears enhanced by hints of butterscotch and fine grained oak. The finish is clean and marked by citrus flavours.

The Beechworth terroir has a distinctive fruit character of pear/peach fruit. The oak has minimal impact by using older French oak and mainly puncheons. The warm year has meant less citrus lift but has bran meal notes from the wild ferment and extended lees contact. The palate is quite rich with zesty acid line through to the finish. Drinking well now but will improve with further bottle age. Maybe leave the 2012 and 2013 for a couple more years and enjoy this in its place. Enjoy with Seafood to light meats.