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St Henri is a time-honoured and alternative expression of shiraz, and an intriguing counterpoint to Grange. It is unusual amongst high quality Australian red wines as it does not rely on any new oak. Released for the first time by Penfolds in the early 1950s (first commercial vintage 1957), it gained a new lease of life in the 1990s as its quality and distinctive style became better understood. Proudly, a wine style that hasnt succumbed to the dictates of fashion or commerce. St Henri is rich and plush when young, gaining soft, earthy, mocha-like characters with age. It is matured in an assortment of old large vats that allow the wine to develop, imparting minimal, if any oak character. Although a small proportion of cabernet may sneak into the blend, the focal point for St Henri remains shiraz.

Distinctively "cabernet", and clinging to its youth tenaciously, the 2015 Bin 407 is only just starting to show some evolution. The elegant tannins are beginning to resolve, the dense, dark fruit softening - the layers melding. Cassis, black currant, mocha and mint flavours shine through. There's lots more to this multi-layered wine for you to discover. It's exciting to drink top cabernets like this, but no need to hurry - it's a brilliant drink now, and will continue to improve for ten years.