In some ways, this is the emblematic wine of the domaine. It was Michel Bettane, the influential French critic, who encouraged Francis Egly to bottle this single vineyard wine separately, with the first release being from the 1989 vintage. This latest offering was bottled after the 2016 base had spent close to one year in cask before being blended with 50% reserve wines from the 2015 vintage. All the vinification and aging for both vintages was in barrel. The fruit comes from old Pinot Noir vines in a single terroir known as Les Crayères. The vines here were planted in 1946, so are now 75 years old (vines of this age are extremely rare in Champagne). Here the soil is barely 30cm deep, then it’s chalk, hundreds of metres down—hence the name of the site (craie is French for ‘chalk’, crayères references chalk quarries which likely once existed here). Les Crayères is situated mid-slope with a full south-facing exposure, not far from the estate’s cellars. The old vines are deeply rooted, giving the wine a classic, mineral energy that weaves its way through the powerful, layered Pinot Noir fruit. The deep concentration is a product of the ripeness and low yields that both the site and its ancient vines naturally deliver. The 2016 base is both a tribute to the greatest sites of Ambonnay and to the Egly-Ouriet domaine. Houses that emphasise blending may consider a 100% old-vine Ambonnay like this to be too intense; Egly gives it to you full throttle! This release is a wine of profound depth yet also great finesse. It’s still early days for the nose (if you open it now, give it time) while the palate is already stunning; a chiselled, mineral mouth bomb. The dosage is only two grams per litre and it’s invisible. An expression of a singular terroir, this is, of course, a unique wine that is, as always, built for food and for aging.

Expect flesh and concentrated ripeness yet also chiselled structure and intense, saline minerality.

“The energy brought by this calcium-rich terroir makes the mouthfeel richer through a silky bubble. With time, the finish lengthens on a salivating mineral vibrancy.” Put another way, this is a more intense and complex expression of this region’s naked-chalk terroir than the NV Oiry. The 2016 harvest produced less than 2,000 bottles.

The acidity is firmer here than the Meunier Blanc de Noirs (Vignes d'Autrefois), with a chewy austerity typical of limestone in Champagne. Regardless, it is fine and poised on the palate with impressive balance, racy freshness and fine chalk-infused bitters that drive a long, sapid finish—an outstanding Blanc de Noirs.

The 2014 Clos Des Goisses Extra Brut 1500ml from Champagne, France, is a stunning vintage from the renowned house of Philipponnat. The vibrant golden hue catches the eye, with delicate bubbles dancing gracefully in the glass. On the nose, aromas of baked apples, honey, and buttered brioche create an alluring bouquet. On the palate, the wine is rich and complex, with flavours of tangy lemon, ripe pear, and a touch of minerality. The mouthfeel is full-bodied and creamy, with a long, lingering finish. This vintage showcases the exceptional quality of the Clos Des Goisses vineyard, with its steep, south-facing slopes and chalky soils. A true expression of terroir, this Extra Brut is a masterpiece of balance and finesse. Enjoy now or cellar for years to come.

The Philipponnat family has owned and run its Champagne house in the heart of the wine-growing areas of Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and Averney for over 500 years. A family of vignerons, winemakers and merchants since the 16th century, they famously supplied their wines to Louis XIV, the Sun King. The houses 20 hectares of vines are Grand and Premier Cru, ensuring quality and intensity in the wines. Deep gold in colour with very fine, dense bubbles and aromas of summer berries, cherry and wild strawberry. Notes of citrus and grapefruit peel develop with time. The attack is elegant and pure. Full and ample on the palate, with good acidity and a light astringency that brings out the fruitiness.