Penfolds Bin 407 began life back in 1993 with the release of the 1990 vintage Cabernet Sauvignon. Created as a result of the availability of high quality Cabernet fruit, Bin 407 is inspired by its older brother, Bin 707. Not only offering varietal definition, but also approachability, structure and depth of flavour. The Bin 407 highlights the Penfolds approach to multi-region, multi-vineyard blending to create a Cabernet that rewards the drinker in both early and later years.

Attractive, bright and bristling fruit, from grapes that were small and concentrated after a particularly dry summer in St-Julien, with rain at the right time in September. Things have been well-handled over ageing and this is rippling with life and succulent acidity. Previously known as Lalande-Borie. A yield of 35hl/ha Jane Anson Decanter 91 Points

This features currant and plum fruit, with tobacco, loam and singed savory notes, maintaining range and driving through the finish. The structure is fine-grained, delivering a lingering hint of acidity. A more subtle expression of Cabernet. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Best from 2022 through 2036. 27,800 cases made. Wine Spectator 93 Points

MAYACAMAS VINEYARDS Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Not much has changed by way of production since Bob Travers started the Mayacamas estate in the early 1940s. The fruit is handpicked early, often in early September - abvs usually end up between 13 and 14 percent to preserve natural, altitude derived acidities. Fermentations occur predominantly in open-top cement vessels which were built in the 1950s, again to preserve acidities and vibrant fruit character. Extended ageing occurs exclusively in neutral oak some as old as 100 years typically for three years which allows the vineyard's expression to shine through the powerful fruit profile, while also minimising oxygenation and helping to maintain the powerful and tight tannin structure Mayacamas is so famous for. The wines then usually spend a further two years in bottle before it is ready to be released to the market. Mayacamas make wines that lie in stark contrast to the more prevalent rich, heavily oaked, high in abv, bombastic wines that are common in the Napa Valley.

The Philip Togni estate vineyard is in the Spring Mountain District AVA, just northwest of the town of St. Helena on the western side of the Napa Valley. Sitting on the eastern slope of the Mayacamas Range, it’s the coolest and wettest region in the valley, partly due to its proximity to the Pacific Ocean (50 kilometres) and San Pablo Bay (40 kilometres). Conditions on Spring Mountain are further moderated by aspect and altitude; most of the region’s vineyards face east, avoiding the harsh afternoon sun, and the steep terrain can reach as high as 800 metres. The east-facing, organic, dry-farmed 10-hectare Togni plot lies high up on the mountain itself, above the fog line at just over 600 metres. Surrounded by oak trees and tall Douglas Firs, the site was first planted in 1981 to Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. Following a conversation with friend and Bordeaux legend Paul Pontallier, Togni decided to mirror the varietal plantings of Château Margaux at his own estate. The plantings now stand at 82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, with the balance comprising Cabernet Franc (2%) and Petit Verdot (1%). The make-up of the wines reflects these plantings. It’s a steeply terraced site, home to old vines (33 years on average) in rocky soils of weathered sandstone and shale. Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon is made from estate fruit―the family has never purchased fruit, nor will they. “We know our site is special,” daughter Lisa explains. “We’re trying to make a wine that reflects this place.” In another tip of the cap to Bordeaux, Philip Togni’s preference from the outset has been to make wines more in the mould of Saint-Estèphe rather than Saint-Julien; in each given season, he and Lisa seek to emulate the longevity, rugged character and definition found in those wines. “That’s what we set out to do, and with a few tweaks, it seems as if that’s what we have achieved.” The 2018 season was a classic at this estate, producing elegant, detailed, site-true wines. The fruit was picked in the third week of September with potential alcohol between 13 and 14%. The grapes were sorted, gently destemmed, crushed, and cold soaked for three days. After 20 days’ co-fermenting, the wine was pressed to French oak (40% new Taransaud and Nadalie). The wine was bottled in August 2020.

Thrust and power married to suppleness. New oak a feature in 2015, but richness does well to mitigate. Paulliac personified, it feels. Dark berries, currants and black olive scents, overlay of clove and mahogany wood character adding depth to the bouquet. Richer than expected to taste, quietly powerful, saturates palate with dark, plummy fruit, well-meshed cedary-clove spice, pepper and graphite-tannins. Coursing, gently powerful wine that builds in intensity. An approachable wine now, you could say. A fuller expression. Mike Bennie The Wine Front 94 Points