Disgorged July 2024. (Formerly known as Expérience). The price here reflects the demand for a cuvée that is utterly unique in the Champagne world and the rarity (there is next to none to go around). Finally, we should not forget that this is a wine style that is extremely difficult to make. First, some background for those new to this wine. In 2002, Agrapart sought and (remarkably) received permission from the local authorities to begin experimenting with a small quantity of wine that he wanted to produce without adding any sugar: no chaptalisation and no additions for the secondary fermentation’s liqueur de tirage (the tricky part), nor the final dosage (liqueur d’expédition). Not using sugar and yeast for the liqueur de tirage (to prompt the second fermentation in the bottle) is actually against the AOC laws, which is why Agrapart needed permission. So how does Agrapart achieve the bottle fermentation? Instead of sugar, he uses must (grape juice) from the same vineyards that produce the wine, thus enabling him to produce a Champagne that is 100% the product of estate-grown grapes. It is also a lower-alcohol wine because the absence of sugar additions means the alcohol does not jump 1.5 degrees, as typically occurs with standard secondary fermentation. So, this wine rests at around 11.8% alcohol compared with 12.5% for the rest of the range. It’s also a wine that can age well; we recently tasted the first vintage, 2007, from magnum at the estate. It was in wonderful shape! The current release is an equal-parts blend from vineyards that contributed to the Avizoise and Minéral cuvées (Les Robarts in Avize and Les Bionnes in Cramant), ‘dosed’ with around 20% of the juice of 2020 from these same vineyards. It is this juice that drives the secondary fermentation in the bottle. Again, no sugar or yeast additions are used for all fermentation, and the wine is never fined or filtered. Regardless of the methodology, this is simply a magnificent, one-of-a-kind Blanc de Blancs: complex, floral and crystalline—without the traditional autolytic notes of a standard tirage, but instead, a purity and delicacy that is second to none. The finish is seriously long as well, streaked with chalk, sap and candied lemon notes.

Disgorged July 2024. Minéral is blended from two adjacent vieilles vignes plots (50-plus years old) on the border between Avize and Cramant, where the vine roots plunge straight into the chalky bedrock. The fruit from Le Champ Bouton in Avize fermented in tank, while the component from Les Bionnes in Cramant was vinified in 600-litre oak casks—“barrels for the expression of minerality and tank of the precision”, as Pascal puts it. The wine spent over five years on lees and was dosed at 3 g/L. Typically the saltiest, most mineral wine in the Agrapart range, this is also incredibly deep and vinous this year—Meursault-like but with an iodine/salinity that is uniquely Côte des Blancs. A great release of this wine!

Agrapart’s scintillating Terroirs is 100% Grand Cru, with the fruit sourced only from great sites across four revered villages in the Côte des Blancs: Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry. Together with the terroir, vine age is a key quality factor, with the average age of the plantings at more than 50 years. This release is based on two outstanding vintages: 2020 and 2019. The reserve wine (the earlier vintage) makes up a remarkable 80% of the cuvée—another telling factor in its quality. After natural fermentation, half the wine matured in large-format, neutral oak and spent over 36 months on lees. Dosage is limited to 5 g/L, and disgorgement was carried out by hand in March 2024. This is another flat-out stunning disgorgement of this wine. Although the 7 Crus is terrific, this is, as always, another level altogether. The quality of the Grand Cru sites, the age of vines, the vintages involved, and the dominance of reserve wines in the blend all play their role in this difference. Regardless, it’s evidence of a stellar grower in perpetual movement. The wine is already wonderful but will, as always, benefit from another year under cork. No third-party notes as yet, but again, trust us: This is superb!

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Disgorged December 2021. This wine offers the “quintessence of the Chavot terroir”, says Aurélien. It is always a selection of Laherte’s five best barrels from each of his two finest Chavot plots: old-vine Chardonnay from Les Chemins d’Épernay (planted in 1957 on clay with chalky subsoils, with around one-third of the fruit the rare Chardonnay-Muscaté); and Pinot Noir from Les Rouges Maisons (planted in the late ‘80s on a deep soil rich in clay, flint and schist). The wines were vinified separately and raised in old Burgundy oak (with some portions fermented in second-hand DRC Le Montrachet barrels). The dosage was 4 g/L. The old vines and clay of Les Chemins d’Épernay impart genuine depth and texture, and this opulence is vibrantly balanced by crystalline freshness and a long, classy finish. This superb, unique Champagne clearly speaks of its terroir. If you love great white Burgundy, this has similar textural and mineral qualities.

This super-mineral Champagne is 100% Chardonnay from the family's chalkiest soils in Chavot and Épernay. These vineyards are biodynamically farmed, and the soil is rich in chalk and chalky clay (marl), with pockets of flint and schist. It’s the chalkiness that drives the wine’s striking, racy and intensely saline minerality—that energy, freshness and zingy, citric line—while the clay provides balancing fruit weight and texture. Based on perfectly ripe fruit, the Brut Nature is a blend of three vintages and includes up to 40% reserve wines. As the name suggests, it’s bottled without dosage. Aged for just over two years in bottle following primary fermentation in barrique, foudre and tronconique cask, like all Laherte’s Champagne this was disgorged by hand. More than ever it’s stunning value for those who love purity and minerality in their Blanc de Blancs. The new disgorgement is a wonderfully sculpted Champagne sizzling with tension and penetrating focus.

The Champagne Pascal Agrapart Grand Cru Vénus Blanc de Blancs 2019 (Disg. Jul 24) 2018 is a stunning expression of French excellence. This vintage 2018 wine hails from the renowned Champagne region of France and is produced by the esteemed Agrapart Maison. Upon first glance, the wine boasts a pale golden hue with delicate bubbles dancing in the glass. On the nose, aromas of fresh citrus, ripe peach, and subtle hints of brioche invite you in for a taste. On the palate, the wine is equally impressive with a rich and creamy texture, balanced by zesty acidity and flavors of green apple, lemon curd, and a touch of minerality. The finish is long and lingering, leaving you with a sense of elegance and sophistication. This Blanc de Blancs is a true gem, perfect for any special occasion or celebration.

The Champagne Pascal Agrapart Grand Cru Avizoise Blanc de Blancs (Disg. Jul 24) 2018 is a standout example of the renowned quality and finesse of Champagne. This vintage 2018 offering from the esteemed Agrapart estate in France showcases the purest expression of Chardonnay, with a striking pale golden colour and a fine, persistent bead. On the nose, delicate aromas of white flowers, lemon peel, and toasted brioche give way to a complex palate of ripe green apple, citrus, and subtle mineral notes. The mouthfeel is rich and creamy, yet perfectly balanced with a refreshing acidity that leads to a long, elegant finish. This champagne is a testament to the mastery and dedication of Pascal Agrapart, and is sure to impress even the most discerning of palates. Enjoy now or cellar for future enjoyment.

The 2017 Champagne Suenen Cramant Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Les Robarts (Disg. TBA) is an exceptional vintage from the renowned region of Champagne, France. This sparkling wine is crafted by the talented Suenen family, who have perfected the art of Champagne production. The pale golden color is a true reflection of its high-quality craftsmanship. On the nose, delicate aromas of freshly baked brioche and toasted almonds mingle with hints of citrus and white flowers. The palate is a burst of vibrant flavors, showcasing zesty lemon, crisp green apple, and a touch of minerality. The fine and persistent bubbles dance on the tongue, leading to a long and elegant finish. This Champagne is a true expression of its terroir, and a must-try for any connoisseur. Enjoy chilled with oysters or a creamy cheese platter.