While Chateau Latour might be proximate to the famed Leoville estate, Chateau Leoville-Las-Cases is individually distinguished for its own unique character, and regularly is called the best wine of St-Julien. Classic Las Cases wines show incredible perfume, a result of lower temperature fermentation and an adherence to around three quarters of their barrels being new oak. The 2010 is as always Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, and shows with elegance, finesse and yet a layered complexity that draws the drinker in. Potential for this wine is immense; a life of 30 to 40 years in cellar should be considered.

The Cuvée Classique is drawn predominantly from the Domaine's vines on the mid-slope of the Clos but also plots on the lower and upper parts of the vineyard. While there's certainly more depth and fruit intensity here, there's also more detail and clarity and exceptionally fine, powdery tannins that coat the tongue and drive the very long finish.

The Vieilles Vignes comes from a selection of the oldest vines in the Clos, mostly planted in 1910 and situated mid-slope, right in the heart of the vineyard. These ancient vines yield only two to three tiny bunches of grapes per vine in a good year. The net result is a Clos de Vougeot of unique intensity, breadth of flavour, complexity and structural power. Interestingly, there are a number of Pinot Beurot (Gris) vines inter-planted in these parcels which are harvested and vinified with the Pinot Noir.

As often happens with Calvert, the nose when young is slightly muted and more direct than exotic; pure and fine aromas, not bold and lush. The palate follows on accordingly, with clarity of fruit, roses and florals. Focussed, concentrated yet pure in the mid-palate, with its hallmark mineral texture, its firm but ultimately juicy on the finish. The vines are growing up and were seeing the puppy-fat turn to muscle.