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Bass Phillip Reserve Pinot Noir shows remarkable puissance and elegance with gorgeous fruit density and beautiful silken tannins. It is a madly rare, profoundly intense and exquisitely balanced wine which reflects the nuances of an exceptional vineyard site. The Reserve is made from five rows of 'precocious' Pinot Noir vines in the centre of a closely spaced (9000 vines/hectare) north-east facing vineyard planted on silty loams. The unfiltered Reserve, matured for 20 months in new Alliers oak, is a brilliant example of Australian terroir showing plenty of concentrated spicy/black cherry fruit, savoury mocha oak and supple tannins. It is widely regarded as Australia's most evocative and characterful Pinot Noir.

As often happens with Calvert, the nose when young is slightly muted and more direct than exotic; pure and fine aromas, not bold and lush. The palate follows on accordingly, with clarity of fruit, roses and florals. Focussed, concentrated yet pure in the mid-palate, with its hallmark mineral texture, its firm but ultimately juicy on the finish. The vines are growing up and were seeing the puppy-fat turn to muscle.

LAURENT PONSOT 1er Cru Les Charmes Cuvée du Tilleul, Chambolle-Musigny

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard stands as a testament to the dedication and passion of the Cathiard family. This small domaine, established by Sylvain Cathiard's grandfather in the 1930s, carries with it a rich history rooted in the legendary Domaine de la Romanee Conti and Domaine Lamarche. Sylvain's father, Andre, lovingly nurtured the domaine from 1969 until 1985, when the reins were passed on to Sylvain himself. In the following years, Sylvain embarked on a journey to develop his own vineyards, renting parcels from his father and other vignerons. Soon after he acquired his father's original vineyards solidifying his commitment to the craft. In 2006, Sylvain's son, Sebastien joined him marking the beginning of a new chapter for the estate. Together, they formed Sylvain Cathiard et Fils, a collaboration that combines tradition with a fresh perspective. Since 2011, Sebastien has taken the helm, carrying on the family legacy while Sylvain enjoys a well-deserved retirement. Spanning across 5 hectares, the vineyards of Domaine Sylvain Cathiard grace the appellations of Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-St-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny. Of significant note is their tiny parcel in Romanée-St-Vivant, situated just below the iconic Romanee Conti. Here, they proudly hold the title of the smallest land-owner of this magnificent Grand cru. Every aspect of vineyard work is executed with meticulous attention to detail by Sebastien, his wife, and a dedicated team. Embracing organic principles, they prioritize the natural harmony of the vines, although certification has not been sought. When it comes to winemaking, Sebastien adopts a hands-off approach, allowing the wines to evolve naturally. Whole-cluster fermentation takes place, with the juice cold settled for approximately 10 days. The wines then undergo a skin contact period of 22 to 30 days. Maturation occurs over 18 months in oak barrels, sourced primarily from tonellerie Remond and Francois Freres. The percentage of new oak used varies across the appellations, with village wines aged in roughly 1/3rd new oak and 2/3rds of 1-year-old oak. Premier Crus see a balance of 50% new oak and 50% 1-year-old oak, while Grand Crus are aged in two new barrels and one one-year-old barrel. Since 2000, the wines have not been fined or filtered, allowing them to express their true character. Sebastien Cathiard's wines exude an unparalleled sense of harmony, with a soft and elegant texture that speaks to their finesse. Since taking over the domaine, Sebastien has listened attentively to those fortunate enough to taste alongside him. As a result, he has gradually reduced the percentage of new oak used for aging, allowing the fruit to shine with natural intensity and balance. The Vosne-Romanées, in particular, have garnered a reputation as some of the finest in the village.Each bottle from Domaine Sylvain Cathiard is a testament to the fully mature vineyards that have yielded fruit of exceptional quality. With a limited production of around 50 barrels in a good vintage, these wines are a true embodiment of passion, tradition and the pursuit of excellence. The Sylvain Cathiard Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers 2021 is an outstanding expression of this renowned Burgundy appellation. Crafted from a .47-hectare parcel of vines planted in 1945 and 1960, located mid-slope and in close proximity to the Vosne-Romanee border. This wine is aged in a combination of 50% new oak and 50% one-year-old oak, adding complexity and structure to the final product. In the glass, this Nuits St Georges 1er Cru reveals a bright red-purple colour that immediately catches the eye. The nose is incredibly enticing, with a pronounced spiciness that could easily be mistaken for a Vosne 1er Cru. Aromas of exotic tea, plum, and dark berries fill the air, setting the stage for a truly captivating tasting experience. On the palate, this wine showcases its pedigree and depth. The richness and concentration of flavors are immediately evident, highlighting the influence of very old vines. The medium-bodied texture is solidly powerful, with harmonious plush tannins that caress the palate. The mid-palate is a standout feature, displaying great depth and a sense of generosity that elevates the overall experience. The persistence of the wine is excellent, leaving a lasting impression on the palate. The lush dark fruit intensity is balanced by valuable acidity, adding a refreshing and vibrant element to the wine's profile. Bright red purple in colour, a little denser than Aux Thorey. This is the more solid of the two, slightly more backward, while the intensity of the lush dark fruit is matched by valuable acidity. The barrel speaks less and the aftertaste stretches out further. Drink from 2026-2033. - Jasper Morris MW, 92-95 Points.