Saracosa is inspired by the ‘Super Tuscans’ – a style first developed in the 1970s. These wines kickstarted the region’s renaissance and became some of the most exclusive and expensive in the world. Saracosa is from the Barbanera family estate, where half the vineyards are in the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, and the remainder just beyond. In the 5-Star 2017 vintage Saracosa’s old vines delivered exceptional concentration. Dense, dark cherry and chocolatey tones make this a serious choice for pasta with pork ragù or bistecca alla fiorentina (steak with cannellini beans in tomato sauce).

Pillastro Nero is a true ‘black red’ – from the ornate label to the deep, dark wine inside. Angelo Maci (winner of three Vinitaly Winemaker of the Year titles) crafted it from Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Primitivo (40%) grown on his 80-year-old alberello-trained bush vines in Puglia, Southern Italy. These gnarled heirlooms yield precious few grapes, meaning each one is a knot of intensely concentrated flavour. In the winery, Angelo treated it to six months’ barrel ageing, imparting toasty oak and sweet spice notes to the wine’s lusciously ripe, black- and bramble-fruit flavours. This is a stunner. Enjoy.

Roberto Voerzio Cerequio Barolo The south/southeast-facing vineyard of Cerequioone of the most prestigious Crus in the commune of La Morra if not all of Barolosits at 270-320m asl. The older vines are pruned for low yields with an aggressive green harvest followed by trimming the bunches to about 500g of fruit per plant. The fruit is harvested by hand (in late September, early October) and fermented on indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks. The wine is then aged for two years in older French oak barrels and 20 hectolitre botti followed by an additional eight months in tank. It spends further eight months in bottle before release.

Italy’s deep south is best known for big, smoky wines made from its prized local varieties – Primitivo, Negroamaro, and in this case the uniquely Puglian Susumaniello grape. In local dialect Susumaniello means something like “loaded like a donkey”, referring to the wine’s massive amounts of aroma and flavour. Pillastro’s creator Angelo Maci is a leading figure in Puglia’s recent quality revolution, and is fervently proud of local traditions and rare grape varieties. As fans of southern Italian wines – and Pillastro fans in particular – will agree, Puglia offers “undreamed-of character and potential” (Hugh Johnson), and mouthwatering Susumaniello is the supreme example of this. Serve in large glasses with braised lamb shanks or caponata.