This is an enticing wine with green apple, ripe pear and plush nectarine fruit characters combining with a satisfying hint of spice. The wine has a supple texture courtesy of the oak barrel fermentation yet the finish remains crisp, dry and refreshing.

In the glass the 2014 Gruner Veltliner, (or GruVe as we like to call it) is very pale straw with fine green hue. The nose is lifted with a flinty minerality and a loaf of citrus (more fresh limes than lemons) with a subtle herby peppery and floral notes. Again the citrus is prevalent on the palate followed by a fine peppery note. The mouth watering acidity combines with the fruit and peppery notes to deliver a long and fresh finish. Drink now or until 2025 with careful cellaring.

RIPOSTE BY TIM KNAPPSTEIN The Katana Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills

COMMUNE OF BUTTONS ABC Chardonnay, Basket Range, Adelaide Hills Commune of Buttons began with a single dream between brother and sister, to continue as second-generation growers of grapes. The ABC is an exciting Chardonnay from the Buttons family vineyard in the Adelaide Hills. Whole bunches are pressed in stainless steel tanks and then allowed to go through a wild ferment in the barrel before bottling. This has the distinctive hallmarks of natural wine whilst maintaining a textural, bright and clean freshness.

Intense berry and red cherry aromas vibrant lend themselves to the palate of dark berry and cherry with subtle hints of dry herbs and silky soft graceful tannins.

Geoff Weaver Sauvignon Blanc from the Adelaide Hills is quite possible the region's best example of this aromatic variety. The bouquet shows lifted varietal characters of green pea and passionfruit and the palate is textured and long.

Displaying complex aromas of strawberries and cream with hints of forest floor. The palate is seamless and elegant. Red fruits with enticing gamey characters swirl within layers of mushroom and notes of fresh herbs. The French oak adds ample but delicate tannins delivering a generous delightful length. Savour on its own or enjoy as an outstanding accompaniment to a duck or game dish, alternatively stuffed wild mushrooms as a vegetarian option.

Red cherries and strawberries along with notes of undergrowth and preserved lemon. Bright and juicy red fruit characters with a savoury back half of earth, leather and subtle dried herbs. The palate is of medium weight with graceful, fine tannins that lend it a plush quality throughout. Grapes were handpicked, keeping individual clones separate in small open fermenters. Some whole bunch fruit was added to ferments, enhancing aromatics and structural complexity. Fermentation was initiated by indigenous yeast (wild ferment). Each clonal parcel was basket pressed and filled to seasoned French oak barrels with full solids. All barrels were kept on lees to build palate, body and complexity. They were racked and blended just prior to bottling. Stephen Georges three hectare, dry-grown, Ashton Hills vineyard lies in the Piccadilly Valley sub region of the Adelaide Hills on a ridge just below the summit of Mount Lofty. Planted in 1982, its a quality site that, thanks to the humility and integrity of its gifted farmer, has been the source of some of South Australias most intriguing cool-climate wines, and certainly its most authentic and fascinating Pinot Noir. You dont need to spend much time in the Piccadilly Valley to realise why this area was granted sub-regional statusit is totally different to the rest of the Hills. In short, its much colder and wetter. Georges Estate vineyard lies at 570 metres above sea level and the vines shudder through some of the coolest vintage conditions in the country. Meanwhile, rainfall is a whopping 1200mm a year, well over double that of the Barossa. Whether its the lifted perfumes, elegant structure and Alpine freshness of the Pinot Noirs or the icy purity of the Riesling, Piccadilly Valleys bona-fide cool-climate imprint is never far away. A healthy portion of old-vines and the vineyards south-facing aspect afford George the luxury of late harvesting that plays a significant role in the personality of these wines. Terroir is one thing, how its worked is another, and Stephen George clearly has an intuitive touch and the drive to continually evolve. Most recently this evolution has resulted in George grubbing out all varieties except for Pinot Noir, and a little bit of Riesling, focusing his Pinot Noir on four specific clones selected from a line-up of 25 that he had tested. The Ashton Hills winery is incredibly basic, with an earth floor and next to no equipment whatsoever. The Pinot fruit is destemmed via a small, customised, gentle destemmer that keeps as many whole berries as possible. The fruit is then basket pressed, and the wine is made without any sulphur additions until bottling. Some whole bunches are included, and the percentage varies according to the style of the vintage. The red wines are mostly raised in aged, neutral French hogshead barrels. Having already cemented his living-legend status amongst his peers and compiled a storied CV that includes his role at Wendouree (since the 1980s) and twenty five vintages at the helm of Ashton Hills, you could forgive this reclusive winemaker for taking his foot off the gas. Not a bit of it. Stephen George is in fact making the best wines of his career.