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Kaesler have had their Semillon vines in the ground since 1960, and in that time have made some truly wonderful wines. The now Old Vines produce wine of intensity, focus, character and sheer drinkability. Cut grass and citrus, green apple and lemon curd, it is drinking beautifully now and will improve over the short term.

Entirely sourced from Tyrrell's famous HVD vineyard. These dry grown blocks were planted in 1984 and 2003 and together they produce a modern style that has both richness and finesse.

Picked from a wide cross-section of vineyards across the far reaches of the Hunter Valley. Whole-bunch pressed, directly transferred to French puncheons (40% new) ; a barrel selection was made with deliberate mlf; then matured 9 months with fortnightly batonnage. As complex as they come, but has retained focus and freshness. Alcohol: 12.5%. Closure: screwcap. Date tasted: Mar 2023. Drink: 2023-2028. Price: $48. Rating: 95/100.

COLOUR Pale gold with a fine, persistent bead. BOUQUET Fresh aromas green apples and citrus fruit with a slight toast and biscuit characters from time on lees. PALATE The palate has clean citrus and white nectarine flavours with some toasty and biscuity notes. A long textural palate with a fine, lively bead and a delicate mousse.

Vibrant aromas of dark cherry, mulberry, and red berries with a hint of spice and subtle oak. The palate is medium to full-bodied, featuring fine tannins, bright acidity, and a long, savoury finish of elegance and balance.

"This is a beautifully crafted wine, fruit-focused and finely detailed. Nothing is overdone, allowing for a graceful flow of lemon, starfruit and white peach flavours. Oak maturation has imparted subtle detail and nuance, resulting in a seamless palate that retains the essence of the site. A light chill between 11–13°C will showcase the wine at its best. 95pts" (Toni Paterson, The Halliday Wine Companion). For John Lehmann, writing in The Australian, "The dictionary definition of elegant might look something like this – a refined nose of honey, lemon posset, flint and almond is a wonderful segue into a palate of amazing complexity. Expect lemon curd, grapefruit pith, oak spice and clove, all of it delicate and well balanced from the acid." 5 Red Star rated Leogate Estate was established in 2009 by Bill and Vicki Widin. Their vines are much older – the Widins are proud owners of the original Brokenback Vineyard established by the legendary Len Evans of Rothbury Estate fame over 40 years ago.