Champagne authority Peter Liem writes that “among all Champagne villages, Aӱ is the most historically esteemed… Today, its terroir is still just as storied, and its grapes are sought after by winemakers across the region.” It is perhaps no surprise that the poet Alfred de Vigny declared in 1853 that “the mousse of Aÿ radiates happiness”. From a Grand Cru where Pinot Noir reigns supreme, Bérêche’s cuvée is sourced from less than a hectare of 40+-year-old vines at 280 metres’ elevation in the cool parcels of Brise Pot and Froide-Terre, bordering Mutigny in Grande Vallée de la Marne, where thin topsoils (at a maximum of 30cm) rest over dense Campanian chalk. Pinot Noir (75%) and Chardonnay (25%) fermented slowly in barrels and aged on lees in bottle for 78 months. The dosage was under 3 g/L. It’s a striking, penetrating Champagne whose depth of crystalline white fruits and soft spices is matched by its sinewy, chalky length and cut-glass precision. A flat-out stunner.

Majestic, highly complex and individual, the Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is the flagship cuvée of the house of Pol Roger. The Champagne is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced exclusively from Grand Cru vineyards. Made only in exceptional years the exact blend is a family secret. Made in honour of Sir Winston Churchill the first release was in 1975.

Its superb maturity tantalizes all the senses with a deep pink robe highlighted with glints of copper, an extremely delicate persistent effervescence, a nose of crushed strawberries, lime and liquorice underlined by a hint of roast coffee and cacao. The palate is entranced by a variation of gourmet sensations. The fresh, precise and taut attack gives way to reveal a supple, molten and heady structure. The finish imparts fruity notes underscored by a saline freshness. With the purity of its precise, gourmet aromatic structure, the Comtes de Champagne Rosé is perfectly in line with its predecessors and promises to offer excellent ageing potential.