William Kelley is better known as the Wine Advocate's mould-breaking wine critic. Yet he is also a very gifted winemaker and now, winegrower. Kelley’s micro-Burgundy project released its first wines from the 2019 vintage, and the ambitious pricing has not dampened the fervour—the wines are as remarkable as they are rare. Yet Kelley’s first foray into winemaking did not start in Beaune, Pommard or Gevrey-Chambertin but in the quiet, pastoral AVA of Clarksburg on the outskirts of Sacramento. Rolling back to 2016, Kelley recalls that he and friend-slash-business partner Frank Ingriselli were looking for organically farmed old vines in Californian sub-regions where variety aligned with climate, which led them to Chenin in Clarksburg. “We then applied artisanal French winemaking techniques and sort of waited to see what happened,” he recalls. What happened is that Beau Rivage promptly reset the conversation around the potential to craft world-class Chenin Blanc from Californian soils. Made in Calistoga, this increasingly impressive Chenin Blanc is drawn from some of Clarksburg’s oldest vines, planted in the 1960s and sourced from a long-term organic grower. The grapes are picked in two lots: those from the sunny side of the vine were crushed to release extract, while fruit from the shadier side was pressed as whole clusters using a very long, firm cycle. The musts are fermented with indigenous yeasts and were raised in eight-year-old, low-toast Burgundy barrels. William Kelley uses more and more solids each year, with the wine building texture and drive from its time on lees. Expect a tension-filled and chalky white marrying the engaging texture of well-ripened Chenin Blanc with lovely clarity, fine-boned texture and impressive length. It doesn’t seem too early to call this out as a new Californian benchmark for the variety.

The 2018 Hundred Acre Kayli Morgan Cabernet is a beautifully crafted wine from the esteemed Hundred Acre Cabernet Sauvignon Kali Morgan, based in the sunny hills of California, USA. This vintage exudes a deep, rich ruby hue with a nose of fresh blackberries, cassis, and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine reveals notes of ripe plums, vanilla, and a touch of spice, all wrapped in velvety tannins. The balance and structure of this wine are impeccable, showcasing the impeccable craftsmanship of the winemaker. The finish is long and lingering, leaving a pleasant hint of cedar and oak. This is a wine that will continue to evolve and delight for many years to come. Enjoy it with a hearty steak or roasted game for an unforgettable experience.

Soft, appealing stone fruit along with tempting touches of hazelnut and lemon blossom with a sweet hint of almond praline. Plum & black fruits with hints of cherry chocolate.